Choose a lining that is lighter than the shell fabric, washes the same way, and matches its stretch: a slippery woven lining (cupro, acetate, polyester or viscose) for skirts, dresses and jackets worn over other clothes, a breathable cotton lawn, voile or silk for garments that sit against the skin, and a tricot or light jersey for knits. A lining should never be heavier or stiffer than the fabric it is inside, and it should be cut a little shorter so it never shows at the hem.
Which lining fabrics are there?
| Lining | Fiber | Weight | Breathable | Care | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cupro (Bemberg) | Regenerated cellulose | Light | Yes | Cool machine wash or dry clean | Skirts, trousers, jackets, dresses |
| Acetate taffeta or twill | Cellulose acetate | Light | Low | Dry clean, cool wash at most | Tailored jackets, occasion wear |
| Polyester lining | Polyester | Light | Low | Machine wash | Bags, budget skirts and jackets |
| Viscose (rayon) lining | Regenerated cellulose | Light | Yes | Cool wash, shrinks a little | Dresses, skirts |
| Silk habotai, crepe de chine | Silk | Very light to light | Yes | Hand wash | Dresses, blouses, lace |
| Cotton lawn, voile, batiste | Cotton | Light | Yes | Machine wash | Summer dresses, children's clothes, bags |
| Tricot, light jersey, power mesh | Nylon or polyester knit | Light | Yes | Machine wash | Knit dresses and skirts |
| Flannel-backed satin (kasha) | Acetate or polyester with brushed back | Medium | Low, warm | Dry clean | Winter coats |
| Self-fabric | Same as shell | Same | Same | Same | Sheer or light garments, bodices |
Does this garment need a lining at all?
A lining does five jobs: it makes a sheer or light fabric opaque, it lets the garment slide over other clothes, it hides seams and facings, it adds warmth, and it helps a fabric hold its shape and resist wrinkling. If none of those applies, leave the garment unlined and finish the seams well instead. Lined vs unlined garments goes through the cases; the short version is that skirts in wool or linen, jackets, sheer dresses and bags usually want a lining, while cotton skirts, blouses and knit tops usually do not.
Which lining for a skirt or a dress?
A skirt in wool, linen, crepe or anything worn over tights wants a slippery lining: cupro is the most comfortable because it breathes, polyester the cheapest, acetate the crispest. Cut the lining from the skirt pieces minus the waistband, 2 to 3 cm (3/4 to 1 1/4 in) shorter than the finished skirt, and hem it with a narrow machine hem. A pencil skirt lining needs the vent handled, which the pencil skirt pattern describes in its guide.
A summer dress in cotton or viscose wants a lining that breathes: cotton lawn or voile under cotton, viscose lining or silk under viscose. For a sheer dress, self-fabric or a lining in the color of the shell keeps the two layers moving together. A slip dress in a sheer fabric is often self-lined: the two layers are sewn as one at the neckline and the straps.
Which lining for a jacket or coat?
A jacket is where slipperiness matters most, because sleeves go on and off over other sleeves. Cupro, acetate twill or a good polyester satin lining are the usual choices; a printed lining is a pleasure every time you open the jacket. For a winter coat, flannel-backed satin adds warmth without bulk. An unlined kimono jacket in a soft fabric needs no lining, but a lining in lawn turns a lightweight version into a two-layer jacket with a clean inside.
Which lining for a bag?
Bags are the exception to the "lighter than the shell" rule. A tote or pouch lining should be firm and washable: quilting cotton, cotton poplin or canvas, often with a medium interfacing fused to it. Slippery dress linings stretch and tear at the corners of a bag. The lined tote bag tutorial shows the lining going in with a turning gap.
Lining or underlining?
A lining is a separate inner garment, joined at the neckline, armholes and waist, hanging free at the hem. Underlining is a second layer basted to each piece and sewn as one with it: it supports the fabric, hides the seam allowances from the outside, and gives a place to catch hems by hand invisibly. Lace, sheer and very light fabrics are underlined; a jacket may be both underlined and lined. Silk organza, cotton batiste and lightweight fusible or sew-in interfacing are the usual underlinings.
How do you choose the color?
Match the lining to the shell for a conventional finish, which hides it if the hem flips. Match it to the skin for a sheer or lace shell that should read as transparent. Choose a contrast or a print only where it will be seen on purpose: inside a jacket, a bag or a reversible garment. Under a pale shell, always test opacity: a white lining under a white dress can look grey, and a flesh-toned one often looks better.
How much lining fabric do you need?
Lining is cut from the shell pieces minus the facings, waistbands and usually the sleeves of a dress, so it takes a little less than the shell: roughly 10 to 20 percent less for a dress, the same for a skirt, almost the same for a fully lined jacket with sleeves. Most lining fabrics are 140 cm (55 in) wide; cotton lawn is 140 cm too, silk often 114 cm (45 in). Lay the pieces out with the fabric yardage calculator if the pattern does not state a lining amount. The sewing guide of a Sewly pattern answers questions like "which lining would suit this fabric?" for the pattern you are making.
How do you sew a lining?
- Pre-wash the lining the way you will wash the garment, so the two shrink together. Viscose lining in particular shrinks more than people expect.
- Use a 70/10 microtex needle and a 2 to 2.5 mm stitch on slippery linings, and pin generously or use a walking foot. How to sew slippery fabric covers the cutting as well.
- Finish the seams: cupro, acetate and polyester linings fray badly. A narrow zigzag or a French seam on a sheer lining keeps the inside tidy.
- Understitch the lining to the seam allowance at the neckline and armholes so it rolls to the inside and stays there.
- Leave a small pleat at the hem of a jacket lining (2 cm, 3/4 in, of extra length folded under) so the lining never pulls on the shell when you move.