A garment needs a lining when the outer fabric is sheer, scratchy or clingy, when the inside would otherwise show construction you cannot finish cleanly (a jacket, a bag), or when the shell would stretch out of shape at the seat and knees on its own. It does not need one when the fabric is opaque, washable and comfortable against the skin, when the garment is loose, or when a facing or a binding can finish the edges: most T-shirts, summer dresses, casual trousers and blouses are better unlined. A lining doubles the cutting and adds a second garment to sew, so add one for a reason, not by default.
How do lined and unlined garments compare?
| Feature | Lined | Unlined |
|---|---|---|
| Inside finish | Seams hidden, clean to look at | Seams must be finished: serger, zigzag, French seam or binding |
| Comfort | Slides over skin and tights, no scratch | Depends on the shell fabric |
| Opacity | Covers sheer and pale fabrics | A pale or thin fabric may show through |
| Shape | Supports the shell; fewer stretched seats and knees | The shell works alone |
| Warmth | Warmer | Cooler, more breathable |
| Sewing time | Almost twice the cutting, a second shell, joining them | Shorter |
| Care | Shell and lining must wash the same way | As the shell |
| Bulk | Extra layers at waist, hem and facings | Slimmer |
What does a lining do?
A lining is a second, lighter garment sewn inside the first, attached at the edges and hanging free elsewhere. It gives the inside a clean surface and the outside a second layer that does four things: it hides the construction, it makes the garment opaque, it slides against your skin or your other clothes so the shell does not cling, and it takes some of the strain of wear, so the shell keeps its shape.
It is not the same as underlining, where a layer is cut identically to each shell piece and the two are sewn as one, which adds body and opacity but does not hide seams. And it is not a facing, a shaped strip that finishes a neckline or an armhole and then stops. A lining is the full-size version of both ideas.
When does a garment need a lining?
- The fabric is sheer or pale. Chiffon, georgette, voile, white or cream linen and light-colored silks show what is behind them. A lining in a matching or skin tone solves it; so does underlining, which keeps the two layers moving together in a drapey fabric.
- The fabric is uncomfortable against skin. Wool, scratchy tweed, metallic brocade and sequined fabrics are made bearable by a smooth lining.
- The garment clings. A straight skirt or dress in a fabric that grips tights rides up with every step. A slippery lining lets it fall back.
- The construction is heavy or visible. A jacket has shoulder pads, interfacing and facings on the inside; a lining covers them and lets the sleeves slide on. A bag's inside is seen every time it opens.
- The shell fabric stretches out. Loosely woven wool, linen and viscose bag at the knees and seat; a lining takes the strain. A fitted pencil skirt in a loose weave is the classic case.
- The garment is for warmth. A lined coat or jacket holds a layer of still air between the two fabrics.
When is unlined the better choice?
Most everyday clothes. A cotton or linen summer dress, a blouse, a T-shirt, pull-on trousers in twill, a gathered skirt: these are opaque enough, washable, and nicer to wear with one layer. In hot weather an unlined garment breathes and dries; a lined one holds heat, and a polyester lining in particular holds sweat.
Unlined also means quicker. You cut one set of pieces, sew one garment, and finish the seams as you go. The seams do need a finish, because they are on show inside and will fray in the wash: a serger, a zigzag, a French seam or a bound edge. Finishing seams without a serger lists the options for each fabric, and seam finishes compared weighs them against each other. Necklines and armholes are then finished with a facing or bias binding, and a facing is often the better-looking choice when the fabric is thick.
A middle path is a half lining: the bodice of a dress lined and the skirt not, or a jacket lined through the body with the sleeves left bare. You get the clean neckline and the slide over the shoulders without the heat.
Which lining fabric should you choose?
The lining must be lighter than the shell, slippery enough to slide, breathable enough for how the garment will be worn, and washable the same way. Buy the same length as the shell for a full lining, less if only the bodice or the skirt is lined.
| Lining fabric | Feel and drape | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cupro (Bemberg) | Smooth, cool, breathable, drapes well | Dresses, skirts, trousers, jackets | Shifts when cut; use fine pins or weights |
| Polyester lining | Slippery, inexpensive, strong | Jackets, bags, costumes | Holds heat and sweat; melts under a hot iron |
| Acetate | Shiny, crisp, cool | Formal wear, jackets | Dry clean only; weak when wet |
| Cotton lawn or voile | Soft, breathable, stable | Summer dresses, children's clothes, cotton skirts | No slip; can cling to tights |
| Silk habotai | Very light, smooth, warm in winter and cool in summer | Special garments, silk and wool shells | Price; hand wash |
| Self fabric | Same as the shell | Light cotton shells, reversible garments | Doubles weight and warmth |
| Stretch lining (tricot, power mesh) | Stretches with the shell | Knit dresses, swimwear | Match the direction of stretch |
How do you add a lining to a skirt or dress?
Most lined skirts and dresses follow the same route. Cut the lining from the main pieces, with the hem 2 to 3 cm (3/4 to 1 1/4 in) shorter, and leave out facings, pockets and anything decorative. Sew the lining into a second skirt or dress, leaving the zip opening unstitched for the same length as on the shell. Sew the shell, insert the zip, then slip the lining inside wrong sides together, pin the waist or neckline edges together and sew the waistband or facing through both layers. Hand-sew the lining's edges to the zip tape, hem the lining separately and let it hang free.
On a dress with a lined bodice, the lining replaces the neckline and armhole facings: stitch the lining to the shell around those edges right sides together, understitch, turn and press. Where the pattern was drafted unlined, you can still do this; Sewly's sewing guide takes questions, so if you want to line a pattern that came without one, ask it which pieces to cut again and where to join them.
Which should you choose?
- A summer dress, blouse, T-shirt or casual trousers in an opaque fabric: unlined, with finished seams and a facing or binding at the edges.
- A straight skirt or fitted dress in wool, loose linen or a fabric that clings: lined, in cupro, or in cotton lawn for summer.
- A sheer or very pale fabric: lined or underlined, depending on whether you want the layers to move together (underlining for drapey fabrics) or separately (lining for a structured skirt).
- A jacket, a coat or a structured bag: lined; it is part of the construction.
- A fitted bodice on a dress with a full skirt: line the bodice, leave the skirt free unless it is sheer.
- A garment you will wash every week: unlined, or lined in cotton or cupro that washes the same way; never a dry-clean-only lining on a machine-wash shell.
- A first project: unlined. Learn seam finishes first; a lining is a second garment, and the lined tote bag is a gentle way to practice joining two layers before you line a dress.