This pattern covers the tops you sew in woven fabric: a sleeveless shell, a boxy top, a puff-sleeve blouse or a button-front blouse. Woven fabric does not stretch, so the shape comes from bust darts, the ease of the fit you choose and an opening that lets the top pass over your head. Sewly drafts it from your bust, shoulders and back waist length, then applies the options below.
Options for your top or blouse
- Fit: fitted, regular (the default), relaxed or oversized. Fitted adds waist darts; oversized drops the shoulder and leaves out the bust dart.
- Neckline: round (default), scoop, V-neck, boat or square, with a depth adjustment.
- Sleeves: sleeveless, cap, short (default), elbow, three-quarter or long.
- Sleeve shape: fitted, straight (default), puff or bell/flutter.
- Opening: back keyhole with a button (default), back zip, buttons down the front, or none with a wide neckline. A round neck with no opening would not go over your head, so Sewly adds a keyhole in that case.
- Length: cropped, waist, high hip, hip (default) or tunic, plus a length adjustment.
- Curved hem: off by default.
The button front is finished with a cut-on facing and has no collar. Shirts with a collar stand are not in Sewly's library yet; for those, a traditional shirt pattern is still the way to go.
Sizes
Use your own measurements or a standard size: women's EU 32–54 (US 0–22, UK 4–26), men's XS to 3XL, or children's 2 to 14 years. Bust darts are drafted for women's measurements; men's and children's versions are shaped without them.
Best fabrics for a blouse
Light to medium wovens with some drape: cotton lawn, viscose, linen, double gauze, silk crepe de chine, chambray or broderie anglaise. Lawn and chambray are the easiest to sew; viscose and crepe de chine drape beautifully but slip under the needle. Puff sleeves look best in a fabric crisp enough to hold their volume.
How hard is it to sew?
Intermediate. A sleeveless shell with a keyhole is a manageable first blouse; set-in or puff sleeves, a zip or a row of buttonholes take more practice. Allow 4 to 6 hours, more for a button front.
What's in the pattern
- Front, cut on the fold, or in two halves with the button facing cut on
- Back, cut on the fold, or in two halves for the keyhole or zip
- Front and back neck facings, or only a back neck facing for the button front
- Sleeves, or bias strips to bind the armholes
Notions: lightweight fusible interfacing, plus a small button for the keyhole, a 40 cm (16 in) invisible zip, or 1 cm (3/8 in) buttons whose number depends on the length. Puff sleeves add narrow elastic.
How to sew a woven top
- Interface the facings and staystitch the neckline.
- Sew the bust darts, and the waist darts for a fitted cut.
- Make the keyhole or insert the zip, then join the shoulders.
- Attach the neck facing, or fold back the button facing.
- Sew the side seams, then set in the sleeves or bind the armholes.
- Sew the buttonholes and buttons, hem and press.
Our guides on setting in sleeves without puckers and sewing buttonholes cover the two trickiest steps.
Frequently asked questions
How much fabric do I need for a blouse?
A hip-length top with short sleeves usually needs 1.2 to 1.8 m (1 3/8 to 2 yd) of 140 cm (55 in) wide fabric. Long or puff sleeves, a tunic length or 110 cm (45 in) wide fabric can bring it to about 2.2 m (2 3/8 yd). Sewly computes the exact quantity for your size and fabric width.
Can I make a button-up shirt with this pattern?
You can make a button-front blouse with a cut-on facing and no collar. Shirts with a collar and collar stand are not in Sewly's library yet.
Which opening should I choose?
The back keyhole is the simplest: one loop and one button. A back zip gives a closer fit at the neck, buttons down the front are the most practical to wear, and no opening suits a wide boat, scoop or square neck.
How are the puff sleeves made?
The sleeve cap is gathered into the armhole for volume, and narrow elastic in the hem draws the sleeve in above the elbow. The guide gives the elastic length from your upper arm measurement.
