Lining
Definition
A lining is a separate inner layer sewn inside a garment or bag, built like the outer shell, that hides seams, helps it slide on and adds comfort.
A lining is cut from its own pattern pieces, often slightly shorter than the outer garment and with a little extra ease so it does not pull. The lining and the shell are sewn separately and joined at the openings: neckline, armholes, waist, front edges or hem.
Why line a garment:
- A neat inside with no seam allowances to finish.
- Smooth wearing: a slippery lining helps skirts glide over tights and coats slide over sweaters.
- Opacity for pale colors and loose weaves.
- Shape and durability: it reduces stretching, creasing and wear on the outer fabric.
Lining fabrics should be lighter than the shell and comfortable against the skin. Cupro and viscose breathe best; polyester is inexpensive and hard-wearing but warm; silk habotai is luxurious; cotton lawn and voile suit summer garments and bags.
Jackets and coats give their lining room with a center back pleat and a small fold at the hem, called a jump pleat. Where a lining meets a facing or an edge, it is understitched so it stays out of sight.
Bags such as the tote bag and the zip pouch are usually lined, which also hides the seam allowances inside. A lining is different from underlining, which is basted to each piece and treated as one layer with it.