Glossary

Interfacing

Definition

Interfacing is an extra layer applied to the wrong side of a garment piece to add firmness and stability to areas such as collars, facings and waistbands.

Interfacing is hidden between the layers of a finished garment. It stops edges from stretching, supports buttons and buttonholes, and gives collars, cuffs, plackets, waistbands and bag panels the body they need to hold their shape.

It comes in several types:

  • Fusible or sew-in. Fusible interfacing has heat-activated glue on one side and is pressed on; sew-in interfacing is basted in place and suits fabrics that dislike heat, such as some silks, velvet and sequined fabric.
  • Woven, knit or non-woven. Woven interfacing behaves like fabric and has a grain; knit (tricot) interfacing stretches and suits knits and soft fabrics; non-woven is felt-like, inexpensive and has no grain.
  • Weight. Choose interfacing the same weight as your fabric or lighter. Too heavy, and the piece turns stiff or bubbles.

To fuse, place the glue side, slightly shiny or bumpy, against the wrong side of the fabric, cover with a pressing cloth and press with steam, lifting and lowering the iron for about 10 to 15 seconds per spot rather than sliding it. Let the piece cool flat before handling it, and always test on a scrap first.

Sewly lists interfacing among the notions in each pattern's sewing guide, with the pieces to interface named in the steps.

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