Facing

A facing copies the shape of the edge it finishes and is usually 5 to 8 cm (2 to 3 in) deep. You sew it to the garment right sides together, trim and clip the seam, turn it to the inside and press. The result is a clean edge with no visible stitching, which is why facings are the standard neckline finish on woven tops and dresses.

Good facings rely on three habits:

1. Interface them. A light interfacing keeps the edge from stretching and gives it body.
2. Grade and clip the seam so the curve turns smoothly without a ridge.
3. Understitch. Stitching the seam allowances to the facing, close to the seam, keeps it rolling to the inside (see understitch).

Finish the outer edge of the facing with a zigzag, an overlock or pinking so it does not fray, and tack it to the shoulder seams by hand or by stitching in the ditch so it stays in place.

Variations include the cut-on facing, cut in one with the garment along a straight edge; the all-in-one facing, which finishes neckline and armholes together; and the bias facing, a strip of bias binding turned fully to the inside. Facings add a little weight and can show through sheer fabric, where bias binding is often the better choice.