A pencil skirt is a straight, close-fitting skirt that follows the hip and narrows slightly toward the hem. Because it has so little ease, fit is everything, and this is where a pattern drafted from your own waist, hip and waist-to-hip measurements makes the biggest difference. Sewly shapes it with front and back darts, puts an invisible zip at center back and adds a vent so you can walk.
Pencil skirt options
- Length: mini, above the knee, knee (the default), midi or maxi, plus an adjustment of up to 25 cm (10 in) either way.
- Taper at each side: from 0 to 4 cm (0 to 1 1/2 in), 1.5 cm (5/8 in) by default. At 0 the skirt falls straight from the hip.
- Back vent: on by default. Sewly sizes the vent to the length of the skirt and leaves it out when the skirt is too short to need one.
- Waist finish: a waistband (default), or a facing for a clean edge with no band.
Sizes
Use your own measurements or a standard women's size, EU 32–54 (US 0–22, UK 4–26). For a close fit, measure your waist and the fullest part of your hip carefully, and add your waist-to-hip length: it decides where the darts end and where the curve of the hip sits.
Best fabrics for a pencil skirt
The pattern takes wovens and stable knits: stretch cotton sateen, wool suiting, ponte knit, stretch denim or crepe. A woven with a little elastane is more comfortable to sit in; ponte gives the easiest fit of all. Avoid very light or drapey fabrics, which wrinkle across the hip.
How hard is it to sew?
Intermediate. You will sew darts, an invisible zip, a vent and a blind hem, and the fit is close enough that a toile is worth the hour it takes. Plan 5 to 7 hours for the skirt itself.
What's in the pattern
- Skirt front, cut on the fold
- Skirt back, in two halves with a center back seam for the zip and vent
- Waistband, given as cutting dimensions, or a waist facing cut twice and curved to the waist
Notions: a 22 cm (9 in) invisible zip, fusible interfacing, and a button or hook and eye for the waistband. The guide lists every piece with its cut count, fabric quantities for 110, 140 and 150 cm (45, 55 and 60 in) wide fabric, and a cutting layout.
How to sew a pencil skirt
- Sew the front and back darts and press them toward the center.
- Insert the invisible zip at center back.
- Sew the rest of the center back seam and the vent.
- Sew and finish the side seams, then try the skirt on.
- Attach the waistband or the waist facing.
- Sew a blind hem by hand or machine, and press.
Our guides on sewing darts that lie flat and making a toile to test the fit are the two that matter most for this skirt.
Frequently asked questions
How much fabric do I need for a pencil skirt?
A knee-length pencil skirt usually needs 0.8 to 1.2 m (7/8 to 1 3/8 yd) of 140 to 150 cm (55 to 60 in) wide fabric. A midi length, larger hips or 110 cm (45 in) wide fabric can bring it to about 1.6 m (1 3/4 yd). Sewly computes the exact quantity for your size and fabric width.
Can I use stretch fabric for a pencil skirt?
Yes. Stretch cotton sateen, stretch denim and ponte knit are all suggested for this pattern. A little stretch makes the skirt more comfortable when you sit and forgives small fitting differences.
Do I need the back vent?
On a knee-length or longer pencil skirt, yes: without it you cannot take a full step. Sewly sizes it to your length and drops it on short skirts, where it is not needed.
Waistband or facing: which should I choose?
A waistband is sturdier and easier to adjust. A facing gives a clean waist edge with nothing above the seam, which looks smooth under a tucked-in top.
