Dart
Definition
A dart is a stitched, wedge-shaped fold that removes width at one point to shape flat fabric over a curve of the body, such as bust or hips.
Bodies are curved and fabric is flat. A dart takes in a wedge of fabric, its intake, along two stitching lines called legs, and tapers to nothing at the point. The fabric beyond the point balloons slightly, and that small dome is what fits over the bust, the shoulder blades, the belly or the seat.
Where you meet them:
- Bust darts from the side seam, pointing toward the bust point and stopping about 2 to 3 cm (3/4 to 1 1/4 in) short of it, a little more on a fuller bust.
- Waist darts in skirts, trousers and fitted bodices, often 1.5 to 3 cm (5/8 to 1 1/4 in) wide at the waist.
- Shoulder and back neck darts in fitted tops and jackets.
Sew from the wide end to the point, with the last few stitches right on the fold so the point does not form a bubble, and tie the threads instead of backstitching. Press horizontal darts downward and vertical darts toward the center, over a tailor's ham so the shape survives.
Darts can also be moved, merged into seams or turned into gathers, which is how a princess seam is born. Step-by-step help: how to sew darts that lie flat.