Definition
A tailor's ham is a firm, ham-shaped pressing cushion used to press curved areas such as darts, princess seams and sleeve caps without flattening their shape.
An ironing board is flat, but a well-made garment is not. Pressing a dart or a curved seam on a flat surface creates creases and undoes the shaping you sewed. A tailor's ham gives you a curved surface to slip under the garment, so you can press curves as curves.
It is a tightly packed cushion, traditionally filled with sawdust, with a gentle curve along one side and tighter curves at the narrow end, so you can find the shape that matches each area: bust darts, waist darts, princess seams, hip curves, collars and sleeve caps.
Most hams have two sides:
- A wool side, which holds steam and suits wool and lower-heat fabrics.
- A cotton side, for cotton and linen at higher heat.
Lay the curved area over the part of the ham that matches its shape, press with steam and let the fabric cool in place before moving it. Use a pressing cloth on fabrics that might shine.
Its companion is the sleeve roll, or seam roll: a long, firm cylinder for pressing seams open inside sleeves and trouser legs, so the seam allowances do not leave imprints on the right side. A tightly rolled towel works as a temporary substitute for either.
See pressing for the technique, and dart for what to press first.