Time: 4 min read

The best fabrics for beginners (and the ones to avoid)

The easiest fabrics to sew as a beginner, with weights in GSM and oz/yd², the fabrics to avoid at first and why, and how to match fabric to your first projects.

Time: 5 min read

Sewing with linen: crisp, comfortable garments

How to sew linen: which weight for which garment, pre-washing and shrinkage, cutting on grain, needles and stitch length, seam finishes and pressing.

Time: 5 min read

Sewing viscose (rayon) without tears

How to sew viscose (rayon) calmly: pre-washing and shrinkage, cutting slippery fabric, needles, staystitching, seam finishes, hems and pressing.

Time: 5 min read

Jersey knit for beginners: T-shirts that do not wave

Why jersey seams go wavy and how to stop it: which knit to buy, the stretch test, needle and stitch settings, neckband ratios and stable T-shirt hems.

Time: 5 min read

Sewing with denim: needles, thread and seams

Sewing denim on a home machine: denim weights in oz and GSM, needle and thread sizes, stitch lengths, thick seams, flat-felled seams and pre-washing.

Time: 5 min read

Sustainable fabric: what to buy and what to reuse

How to choose sustainable sewing fabric: fiber trade-offs, what GOTS, OEKO-TEX, GRS and FSC mean, buying the right amount, and reusing deadstock and scraps.

Time: 5 min read

Reading fabric descriptions: GSM, oz, drape and stretch

How to read a fabric listing: what GSM means and how it converts to oz/yd², weave and knit names, drape, stretch percentage, width and the words to watch.

Time: 5 min read

Upcycling: sew new clothes from thrifted fabric and bedsheets

Sew new clothes from thrifted fabric and bedsheets: what to buy, sheet sizes, checking and preparing the fabric, finding the grain and planning the cutting.

Time: 5 min read

Cotton, linen or viscose: which fabric for a summer garment

Cotton, linen and viscose compared for summer sewing: breathability, drape, wrinkling, shrinkage and ease of sewing, with a recommendation by garment.

Time: 6 min read

Jersey, interlock, rib or French terry: knit fabrics compared

Jersey, interlock, rib knit and French terry compared: stretch, weight, curling, recovery and which to pick for T-shirts, tanks, sweatshirts, cuffs and bands.

Time: 5 min read

Natural vs synthetic fabrics for sewing clothes

Natural fibers (cotton, linen, wool, silk) vs synthetics (polyester, nylon, elastane) for garment sewing: comfort, care, sewing behavior and when each wins.

Time: 6 min read

Cotton vs polyester thread: which to sew with

Polyester thread is the all-purpose choice for sewing clothes: strong, elastic and colorfast. Cotton suits quilting and heirloom work. Which to use when.

Time: 6 min read

Fabrics for trousers compared: twill, linen, Tencel and ponte

Cotton twill, linen, Tencel (lyocell) and ponte compared for trousers: weight, drape, stretch, wrinkling and durability, with a pick for each trouser style.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with cotton lawn: light, crisp and forgiving

Cotton lawn is a fine 60–90 gsm plain-weave cotton: sew it with a 70/10 needle, a 2–2.5 mm stitch and French seams, pre-wash it, and line it where it is sheer.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with chambray: the easy denim look

Chambray is a plain-weave cotton with a colored warp and white weft: sew it with an 80/12 needle, a 2.5 mm stitch and flat-felled seams, and pre-wash it first.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with corduroy: nap, needles and pressing

How to sew corduroy: cut every piece with the nap one way, use a 90/14 needle and a walking foot, and press from the wrong side on a towel to keep the pile.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with velvet without crushing it

How to sew velvet: cut it in one direction, hand-baste each seam, sew with a walking foot and press pile-down on a needle board so it never crushes.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with silk: cutting, needles and seams

How to sew silk: cut a single layer on paper with weights, use a new 60/8 or 70/10 microtex needle, fine thread, a 2 mm stitch and French seams.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with satin: snags, shine and seams

How to sew satin: a new 70/10 microtex needle and smooth hands stop snags, the shine is cut one way like a nap, and French or bound seams hide the inside.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with chiffon: taming the lightest fabric

How to sew chiffon: stiffen it with starch or gelatin, cut a single layer between tissue paper, use French seams with a 60/8 needle and finish with a baby hem.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with wool: suiting, flannel and crepe

How to sew wool suiting, flannel and crepe: pre-shrink with steam, not a wash, needle 80/12 to 90/14, press through a cloth over a ham, bind seams, hem by hand.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with flannel: soft, warm and prone to shrinking

How to sew cotton flannel: pre-wash it twice (it shrinks 5 to 10 %), cut with the nap, use a 90/14 needle at 3 mm, match the plaid and finish every seam.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with Tencel (lyocell): drape without the tears

How to sew Tencel lyocell twill and sateen: gentle pre-wash, single-layer cutting with a rotary cutter, a microtex 70/10 needle, 2.5 mm stitch and narrow hems.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with double gauze

How to sew double gauze: pre-wash it (it shrinks 5 to 10 %), cut it single layer with a rotary cutter, use a 70/10 needle, French seams and a double-fold hem.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with seersucker: the summer fabric that needs no ironing

How to sew seersucker: pre-wash it, cut along a stripe, use a 70/10 or 80/12 needle at 2.5 mm, French seams, and press only the seam line so the puckers stay.

Time: 5 min read

Sewing with cotton poplin: crisp shirts and dresses

How to sew cotton poplin: 70/10 or 80/12 needle, 2.2–2.5 mm stitch, pre-washing for 2–3% shrinkage, French or serged seams, hot steam pressing and what to make.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with twill: trousers, jackets and bags

How to sew twill: 90/14 or 100/16 needle, 3 mm stitch, cutting with the diagonal one way, grading thick seams, pressing with a clapper and what to make.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with canvas: bags, aprons and heavy seams

How to sew canvas at home: duck weights explained, 100/16 or 110/18 needle, clips not pins, a walking foot, bulk at corners, hems and what to make.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with French terry: sweatshirts and joggers

How to sew French terry: stretch needle, narrow zigzag or overlock, pre-washing for lengthwise shrinkage, rib bands, twin-needle hems and what to make.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with rib knit: bands, tanks and fitted tops

How to sew rib knit: stretch needle and stitch, how much shorter to cut neckbands and cuffs (75–90% of the edge), cutting without stretching, and hems.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with ponte knit: structured and stable

Ponte is a stable double knit with 25–40 % stretch: sew it with a 75/11 stretch needle, a narrow zigzag, 1 cm seam allowances and a twin-needle hem.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with scuba (neoprene-look) knit

Scuba is a springy polyester double knit that holds a shape: sew it with a stretch needle, a 3 mm stitch and a walking foot, press on low and leave hems raw.

Time: 7 min read

Sewing with fleece: warm layers without a serger

Fleece does not fray, so any machine can sew it: a 90/14 universal or stretch needle, polyester thread, a 3–3.5 mm stitch, raw seam allowances and no iron.

Time: 7 min read

Sewing with oilcloth and laminated cotton

Oilcloth and laminated cotton keep every pin hole: sew them with a 90/14 microtex needle, a 3.5 mm stitch, a non-stick or walking foot, clips, and no iron.

Time: 7 min read

Sewing with faux leather: needles, feet and no pins

Faux leather never closes a hole: sew it with an 80/12–90/14 microtex needle, a 3–3.5 mm stitch, a non-stick or walking foot, and clips instead of pins.

Time: 6 min read

Sewing with lace: seams, hems and linings

How to sew lace without snags or puckers: a 70/10 needle, fine thread, French or lapped seams, the scallop used as the hem, and when to line or underline it.

Time: 7 min read

Sewing with tulle: skirts, layers and gathers

Sew tulle without snags: a 60/8 to 70/10 needle, fine thread, raw edges left unhemmed, gathering over a cord, and how to build a layered skirt on a lined waist.

Time: 6 min read

Can you sew garments from quilting cotton?

Yes, for crisp shapes: gathered and A-line skirts, boxy tops, shift dresses, aprons and bags. Why quilting cotton lacks drape, how it shrinks and how to use it.

Time: 5 min read

How to choose lining fabric

Pick a lining lighter than the shell that washes the same way: cupro or acetate for jackets and skirts, lawn or silk against the skin, tricot for knits.

Time: 7 min read

Interfacing weights explained: light, medium and heavy

Light interfacing for lawn and blouses, medium for collars, cuffs and waistbands, heavy for bags and hat brims: match the weight to the fabric and fuse it well.

Time: 7 min read

Fabric shrinkage by fiber: how much to expect

Typical first-wash shrinkage by fiber: 2–5% for cotton and linen, up to 10% for flannel and jersey, almost none for polyester. How much extra fabric to buy.

Time: 6 min read

Buying fabric online vs in store: how to get it right

Online fabric shops offer choice and price but no touch; stores let you feel drape and color. Read listings by GSM, order swatches, and know when each wins.

Time: 5 min read

Deadstock fabric explained: what it is and where to find it

Deadstock is unused fabric left over from mills, brands and factories, sold by the piece. What to check before buying, how to test the fiber, and where to look.

Time: 6 min read

How to identify a fabric's fiber: the burn test and other checks

Burn a small swatch with tweezers over a sink: plant fibers smell of paper and leave ash, wool and silk smell of hair, synthetics melt to a bead. Safety first.

Time: 6 min read

Right side vs wrong side of fabric: how to tell

The right side is the face meant to show: brighter print, shinier satin, clearer twill, knit Vs on jersey, rough selvedge pin holes. How to tell it and mark it.

Time: 7 min read

How to measure the stretch percentage of a knit

Measure a knit's stretch percentage with a ruler: 10 cm that stretches to 15 cm is 50 % stretch. Test both directions and recovery, then match your pattern.

Browse by topic

From photo to sewing pattern: guides and how-tos

How to turn a photo, a screenshot or a Pinterest or Instagram link into a sewing pattern that fits, and what to expect from the result.

Learn to sew: beginner guides and first projects

Plain-language answers for people starting to sew: first projects, tools, costs, common mistakes and how to build skills step by step.

Fitting and measuring for sewing: adjustments that work

How to take measurements, read drag lines and make the alterations that matter, from shoulder and bust adjustments to trousers.

Sewing techniques: how-tos and comparisons

Step-by-step how-tos for seams, hems, zips, pockets, collars and more, and comparisons of the methods so you pick the right one.

Printing and using PDF sewing patterns

Printing at home, at a copy shop or with a projector: scale checks, assembly, storage and the mistakes that ruin the fit.

Sewing projects: patterns you can make to your measurements

Garment and home projects with pieces, fabric amounts and steps, from a first T-shirt to dresses, trousers and bags.

AI and sewing patterns: what works and what does not

Honest guides to AI pattern makers and assistants: accuracy, limits, how to prompt them and how they compare with drafting by hand.

What to sew: ideas by season and occasion

Capsule wardrobes, seasonal projects and outfit ideas, each matched to a pattern you can draft to your measurements.

Sewing machines: comparisons, buying guides and troubleshooting

Which machine to buy, how brands and types compare, and how to fix tension, skipped stitches, jams and noise.