To sew linen well, pre-wash it the way you will wash the garment (it often shrinks 3–5%, sometimes more), straighten the grain before cutting, use a universal or sharp needle in size 80/12 or 90/14 with a 2.5–3 mm stitch, finish every seam because linen frays, and press with plenty of steam on the hottest setting. Choose the weight for the garment: around 120–180 GSM for tops and dresses, 180–250 GSM for trousers, skirts and jackets.
Which linen weight should you choose for which garment?
Linen comes in a wide range of weights, and the weight decides what it is good for far more than the word "linen" does.
| Weight | GSM | oz/yd² | Feel | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Handkerchief | 100–130 | 3–3.8 | Light, slightly sheer | Blouses, shirts, summer tops |
| Light to medium | 140–180 | 4.1–5.3 | Soft with some body | Dresses, tops, wrap skirts |
| Medium | 180–230 | 5.3–6.8 | Substantial, falls in soft folds | Wide-leg trousers, shorts, skirts, kimono jackets |
| Heavy | 250 and up | 7.4 and up | Firm, close to canvas | Jackets, aprons, cushion covers, bags |
Blends behave differently. Linen-viscose drapes more and wrinkles less; linen-cotton is softer, cheaper and frays less; washed or stonewashed linen has been softened at the mill and usually shrinks less than crisp, unwashed linen.
Should you pre-wash linen, and how?
Yes. Linen relaxes and shrinks in the first wash, and its character changes: crisp, flat linen from the bolt comes out softer and slightly textured. Wash it at the temperature you will use for the garment (40 °C / 105 °F is common), and dry it the same way too, because a tumble dryer shrinks it further than a washing line.
Before washing, zigzag or serge the cut ends, or the length will lose a few centimeters to fraying and tangle into a knot in the drum. If you buy a long length for trousers or a dress, washing it twice is worthwhile: linen can keep shrinking a little in the second wash. The pre-washing guide covers the general method.
How do you cut linen on grain?
Linen is often rolled slightly off grain, and loosely woven linen moves easily, so a little care at the cutting stage saves you a twisted trouser leg later.
- Pull a thread across the width near one end: snip into the selvedge, catch one crosswise thread and ease it out. The line it leaves is a perfect straight-grain guide.
- Cut along that line, then fold the fabric selvedge to selvedge. If the cut ends do not line up, pull the fabric gently on the bias, toward the short corner, and press it.
- Lay out the pattern with the grainline parallel to the selvedge, measuring at both ends of the arrow.
- Use pattern weights and a rotary cutter if you can; pins and scissors lift the fabric and let it shift.
Then staystitch the necklines and other curves within a few hours of cutting. Staystitching is a line of stitches in the seam allowance, close to the seam line, that stops loosely woven linen from stretching out of shape while you handle it.
Which needle, thread and stitch length work best for linen?
| Linen weight | Needle | Stitch length |
|---|---|---|
| Handkerchief | Microtex or universal 70/10 | 2–2.5 mm |
| Light to medium | Universal 80/12 | 2.5 mm |
| Medium | Universal 80/12 or 90/14 | 2.5–3 mm |
| Heavy | Universal 90/14 or denim 100/16 | 3 mm |
All-purpose polyester thread is the safest choice for seams; cotton thread looks lovely on linen but is weaker. A slightly longer stitch than usual, 2.5–3 mm (about 8–10 stitches per inch), keeps seams from puckering. Linen dulls needles faster than you would expect, so start each garment with a fresh one.
How should you finish seams in linen?
Every seam needs a finish, because linen keeps fraying wash after wash. Choose by weight and garment:
- French seams on light linen tops and dresses: the raw edge is enclosed inside a narrow second seam.
- Flat-felled seams on trousers and shorts: strong, flat and tidy inside and out.
- Overlock or zigzag on medium and heavy linen: quick and soft.
- Bias-bound (Hong Kong) seams inside unlined jackets, where the inside shows.
The guide to finishing seams without a serger shows each of these finishes step by step.
How do you press linen?
Use the hottest setting on your iron (the cotton and linen setting, around 200 °C / 390 °F) and lots of steam, or press while the fabric is still slightly damp. Press from the wrong side, or use a pressing cloth on dark linen, which can turn shiny under a hot iron.
Linen loves a sharp crease, so press every seam as you sew it. It is the reason hems in linen are easier than in almost any other fabric: fold, press, and the fold stays exactly where you put it.
What should you sew in linen?
Linen creases. You can fight it with blends, or embrace it with relaxed shapes where soft wrinkles look intentional. Garments that suit linen:
- Wide-leg pull-on trousers in medium linen, with in-seam pockets.
- A shift dress or a boxy top in light to medium linen.
- A kimono jacket in medium linen for summer evenings.
- A wrap skirt, an apron or cushion covers in heavier linen.
Fitted styles are possible too, but leave a little more ease than in cotton, since linen has no stretch at all and creases more where it is strained.
Linen is often sold in 140–150 cm (55–60 in) widths. Sewly gives the fabric quantity for 110, 140 and 150 cm (45, 55 and 60 in) wide fabric with each pattern, so you can check how much a pair of wide-leg trousers needs at your measurements before you buy. The step-by-step post on sewing wide-leg linen trousers walks through one complete project.