A bomber jacket is a short, roomy jacket finished with rib knit at the collar, cuffs and hem, and closed with a zip: the MA-1 flight jacket in nylon twill, the varsity jacket in wool, the satin souvenir jacket. Sewly drafts it with a relaxed fit and jacket ease from your bust or chest, shoulders and arm length, then sizes the rib bands to the neckline, the wrists and the hem.
Bomber jacket options
Every option redraws the pattern instantly, without using any AI:
- Fit: relaxed (the default), regular, fitted or oversized, with extra chest ease for a puffier shape.
- Length: high hip by default, from cropped to below the seat, plus a length adjustment; the length includes the rib hem band.
- Collar: rib knit (default), or a band collar, a jacket collar on a stand or a lined hood.
- Opening: a center-front separating zip (default), or snaps or buttons down the front.
- Pockets: slanted welt hand pockets (default), or patch, flap or in-seam pockets; patch, flap or welt chest pockets are options.
- Sleeves: long and set in by default, or raglan or dropped, with rib cuffs.
- Lining: a full lining for the body and sleeves, on by default.
- Topstitching: matching thread by default, or contrast, or none.
Made to measure or a standard size
Use your own measurements or a standard size: women's EU 32–54 (US 0–22, UK 4–26), men's XS to 3XL, or children's 2 to 14 years. The bomber is cut without darts for every body: its roomy fit, drawn in by the rib bands, needs no shaping. Your arm length and wrist size the sleeves and cuffs.
Best fabrics for a bomber jacket
Nylon twill for the MA-1 look, cotton sateen or technical twill for an everyday jacket, satin for a souvenir jacket, wool melton for a varsity jacket. Add rib knit for the bands, in a matching or contrast color, and a lining: a smooth lining fabric, or a quilted lining for a warmer jacket. Our post on how to choose lining fabric explains the options.
How hard is it to sew?
A project for confident sewists. The welt pockets, the separating zip and the bagged lining each need precision, and stretching the rib bands evenly takes practice. Allow 12 to 15 hours, and make one welt pocket on a scrap before cutting into the fronts.
What's in the pattern
- Two fronts, a back on the fold and two sleeves
- Rib collar, two rib cuffs and a rib hem band, given as cutting dimensions
- Two pocket welts, and four pocket bags cut from lining
- Front facings, with their interfacing
- Front, back and sleeve linings
Notions: a separating (open-ended) zip, its length worked out from your measurements; rib knit for the bands; medium-weight fusible interfacing; topstitching thread. The guide lists every piece with its cut count, the notions with their quantities, the quantities of main fabric, lining and rib knit for 110, 140 and 150 cm (45, 55 and 60 in) wide fabric, and a cutting layout.
How to sew a bomber jacket
- Fuse the interfacing and make the welt pockets in the fronts.
- Sew the shoulder seams and baste the separating zip to the front edges.
- Baste the rib collar to the neckline, stretching it evenly.
- Set the sleeves in flat, sew each side and sleeve seam in one pass and attach the rib cuffs.
- Sew the front facings to the front linings and assemble the lining.
- Bag the lining: sew it around the front edges and neckline, over the zip and collar, then to the cuffs.
- Attach the rib hem band through the jacket and lining, and press.
Our post on how to sew welt pockets walks through the step that needs the most care.
Frequently asked questions
How much fabric do I need for a bomber jacket?
An adult bomber usually takes about 1.1 to 1.6 m (1 1/4 to 1 3/4 yd) of 140 to 150 cm (55 to 60 in) wide main fabric, plus up to about 1.6 m (1 3/4 yd) of lining and about 0.4 m (1/2 yd) of rib knit for the bands. Sewly computes each quantity for your size and fabric width.
Do I need a serger for the rib bands?
No. The guide sews the rib cuffs and bands with a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag on a regular machine, stretching the rib, not the jacket, between pins. An overlocker is quicker but optional.
Can I make it without a lining?
Yes, turn the lining off. The lining is on by default because it hides the welt pocket bags and the seams, and it makes the jacket easier to slip on.
Can I make a varsity jacket with snaps?
Yes. Choose snaps down the front, wool melton for the body and a contrast rib knit for the collar, cuffs and hem band. The snaps are listed with their setting tool in the notions.
