Definition
Rib knit is a knit fabric with alternating vertical columns of knit and purl stitches, giving it strong crosswise stretch and recovery, ideal for neckbands, cuffs and waistbands.
Rib knits are named by their stitch pattern. 1×1 rib alternates one knit and one purl column and is fine and flexible; 2×2 rib alternates two of each and has more pronounced ridges and grip. The columns compress like an accordion, which is why rib stretches so far across its width and snaps back.
Ribbing is often sold as a tube, usually with 5% elastane or more. Its main job is to finish the edges of knit garments: neckbands on T-shirts and sweatshirts, cuffs on sleeves and jogger legs, and hem bands on sweatshirts and hoodies.
Bands are cut shorter than the edge they finish, a form of negative ease, and stretched to fit as you sew:
| Band | Typical length |
|---|---|
| Neckband | 75–85% of the neckline length |
| Cuff | 75–85% of the sleeve or leg opening, but loose enough to pass the hand or foot |
| Hem band | 80–90% of the garment hem |
Cut each band so the ribs run across its short width, which puts the stretch around the body, and fold it in half lengthwise before attaching. Heavier rib is also used as a body fabric for ribbed tops and dresses.
On the sweatshirt, the neckband, cuffs and hem band are cut from ribbing, with lengths given in the sewing guide. It pairs naturally with French terry.