Glossary

Stretch percentage

Also called: stretch factor, degree of stretch

Definition

Stretch percentage is how much a knit fabric lengthens when stretched, relative to its relaxed length: 10 cm that stretch to 15 cm is 50% stretch.

Knit patterns often state the stretch they were drafted for, such as "for knits with at least 40% stretch", because a garment designed for a stretchy fabric comes out too tight in a stable one.

How to measure it:

  1. Fold the fabric along the crosswise grain, a few centimeters from a cut edge.
  2. Mark 10 cm (4 in) along the fold.
  3. Hold one mark still and stretch gently until the fabric resists, without distorting it.
  4. Measure the new length. Stretched to 15 cm (6 in), the fabric has 50% stretch; to 12.5 cm (5 in), 25%.

Then let go and check the recovery: a good knit returns to 10 cm at once. One that stays longer will bag at the knees and elbows.

StretchCategoryExamples
Under 25%StablePonte, scuba, some French terry
25–50%ModerateCotton jersey, interlock
50–75%StretchyJersey with elastane, rib
Over 75%Very stretchySwimwear and activewear fabrics

Measure lengthwise too: two-way stretch fabrics stretch mainly across, four-way fabrics in both directions, which leggings and swimwear need.

Stretch decides how much negative ease a garment can have and how short to cut bands of rib knit. See knit fabric for more.

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