To choose fabric for a pattern, match three things to it: the type of fabric (woven or knit), the weight and the drape. Start from the fabrics the pattern suggests, check that a knit has the stretch the pattern needs, then pick a weight and drape that suit the silhouette: crisp fabrics hold volume and shape, fluid fabrics fall close to the body and swing.
Woven or knit: follow the pattern
This choice is not negotiable. A pattern drafted for knits has little or no ease and relies on stretch; sewn in a woven, it may not even go over your head. A pattern drafted for wovens has ease and openings; sewn in a knit, it comes out bigger and droopier than intended. If you are not sure what you are holding, see woven vs knit fabric.
For knits, check the stretch. Fold the fabric along a crosswise line, hold 10 cm (4 in) of it against a ruler and stretch gently until it resists. If it reaches 15 cm (6 in), the stretch percentage is 50 %. Then let go: it should spring back to 10 cm. A knit that stays stretched will bag at the knees and elbows.
Weight: what gsm tells you
Fabric weight is given in grams per square meter (gsm) or, in the US, in ounces per square yard. 1 oz/yd² is about 34 gsm.
| Weight | gsm | oz/yd² | Examples | Typical uses |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Light | under 150 | under 4.4 | Lawn, voile, chiffon, light viscose | Blouses, linings, gathered skirts, summer dresses |
| Medium | 150 to 250 | 4.4 to 7.4 | Poplin, linen, chambray, jersey, double gauze | Dresses, skirts, trousers, T-shirts |
| Heavy | over 250 | over 7.4 | Denim, canvas, coating, sweatshirt fleece | Trousers, jackets, bags, sweatshirts |
Weight is only half the story: a 200 gsm linen and a 200 gsm viscose crepe weigh the same and behave completely differently. That difference is drape.
Drape: crisp or fluid?
Drape is how a fabric hangs and folds. Two quick tests work in a shop or at home:
- Hold a length of fabric up by one corner and let it fall. Fluid fabrics fall into soft, narrow folds; crisp ones fall in wide, stiff folds or stand away.
- Gather about 50 cm (20 in) of the cut edge into your fist. Fluid fabric collapses into fine ripples; crisp fabric fans out in bold pleats.
Then look at the garment you want to make. A circle skirt that swings needs fluid fabric; an A-line skirt that holds its shape needs body; a puff sleeve that stands up needs some crispness; a bias-cut slip dress needs a fabric that pours.
Which fabric for which garment?
| Garment | Good choices | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Circle skirt | Viscose challis, crepe, cotton lawn, double gauze | Stiff canvas or denim: the skirt stands out instead of swinging |
| Gathered skirt | Cotton poplin, double gauze, seersucker, voile | Heavy fabrics: the gathers get bulky at the waist |
| Pencil skirt | Stretch cotton sateen, wool suiting, ponte knit | Limp fabrics: they wrinkle across the hips |
| T-shirt | Cotton elastane jersey, bamboo jersey, rib knit | Knits with little stretch or poor recovery |
| Woven top or blouse | Cotton lawn, viscose, linen, double gauze | Thick fabrics for gathers or puff sleeves |
| Shift dress | Linen, cotton poplin, viscose twill, chambray | Sheer fabrics without a lining |
| Slip dress | Satin, viscose crepe, cupro, sandwashed silk | Crisp cottons: the bias cut needs fluid fabric |
| Sweatshirt or hoodie | French terry, sweatshirt fleece, ribbing for the bands | Thin jersey: it loses the shape |
| Wide-leg trousers | Linen, viscose twill, light wool | Sheer voile: see-through and shapeless |
| Tote bag | Cotton canvas, denim, drill | Thin cotton, unless you interface it |
Fiber: how it wears and how it sews
- Cotton breathes, presses well and is the easiest to sew; it can shrink in the first wash.
- Linen is cool and crisp, creases easily, frays and shrinks, and softens with every wash.
- Viscose (rayon) drapes beautifully but shifts when you cut it, shrinks and is weak while wet.
- Polyester resists creases but breathes less, and melts under a hot iron.
- Wool is warm, presses and shapes beautifully, and needs gentle washing.
- Silk is fluid and luxurious, but slippery to cut and sew.
Prints, nap and stripes
One-way prints and fabrics with a nap (velvet, corduroy, some satins) need every piece cut in the same direction, which takes more fabric. Stripes and plaids need matching at the seams, which takes more again. Large prints need thought about where the motifs land: a big flower centered on each bust point is rarely the look you want. Small all-over prints are the most forgiving.
How to choose, step by step
- Check whether the pattern is for woven or knit fabric, and the minimum stretch if it is a knit.
- Note the fabrics the pattern suggests and the silhouette you want: structured or fluid.
- Pick a weight range from the table above.
- Test the drape with the two hand tests, or order swatches before buying several meters online.
- Check the print direction and whether stripes or plaids need matching.
- Read the care label and pre-wash your fabric the way you will wash the garment.
Beginner-friendly picks
For a first garment, choose a stable, medium-weight woven: cotton poplin, quilting cotton, chambray or a linen-cotton blend. They stay put when you cut, press crisply and do not stretch out of shape under the presser foot. Leave slippery satin, sheer chiffon and very stretchy knits for later projects. There is a longer list in the best fabrics for beginners.
Common fabric mistakes
- Crisp fabric in a design made for drape: a gathered skirt in denim stands out like a lampshade.
- Fluid fabric in a structured design: an A-line skirt in viscose collapses and loses its shape.
- A knit without enough recovery: the garment fits on day one and bags by day three.
- Sheer fabric without a plan: budget for a lining or an underlayer.
- Forgetting the extra fabric for a one-way print: check the quantity before you buy.
If you start a pattern from a photo in Sewly, the 3D preview shows the garment in the colors and print of your picture, which helps you judge proportions and the scale of a print. It shows the silhouette, not the exact drape of a particular fabric, so the drape test in your hands still decides.