Negative ease
Definition
Negative ease means a garment measures less than the body it is made for, so stretch makes it hug the body; it works only with knits and elastic.
With negative ease, the fabric is stretched slightly when worn, and its recovery keeps the garment snug without darts or closures. A woven garment with negative ease would not go on at all.
Typical amounts, as a share of the body measurement:
| Garment | Negative ease |
|---|---|
| Fitted T-shirt | 0 to 5% |
| Leggings, fitted knit dress | 5 to 15% |
| Swimwear | 10 to 20% |
| Neckbands and cuffs in rib knit | Band cut 10 to 25% shorter than the opening |
The right amount depends on the fabric's stretch percentage and recovery: a fabric that stretches 50% and springs back can take more negative ease than one that stretches 25%. Patterns designed for negative ease state a minimum stretch, and a firmer knit than the one specified makes the garment too tight.
Elastic follows the same logic. A waistband elastic is cut shorter than your waist so it grips; how much depends on the elastic's firmness, and the elastic length calculator does the arithmetic.
If a knit garment feels tight in a test version, check whether your fabric matches the stretch the pattern was drafted for before changing sizes. See also knit fabric.