Definition
French terry is a knit fabric with a smooth jersey face and soft loops on the back, a midweight, breathable sweatshirt fabric that becomes fleece when brushed.
French terry is knitted with an extra yarn that forms small loops on the wrong side. Left as loops, the fabric stays breathable and suits sweatshirts, hoodies, joggers and loungewear for most of the year. When the loops are brushed into a fluffy surface, the same construction becomes sweatshirt fleece, warmer and softer but bulkier.
What to expect:
- Weight: usually 240 to 350 gsm; lighter versions make summer sweatshirts and dresses.
- Stretch: moderate across the width, often 25 to 40%, more with elastane. It stretches little lengthwise.
- Edges: cut edges curl less than jersey, and the loops shed a little lint when cut.
Sewing it on a home machine is straightforward: a stretch or ballpoint needle, size 80/12 to 90/14, a narrow zigzag or stretch stitch, and a stitch length of about 3 mm. Prewash it, because cotton French terry can shrink several percent.
French terry usually has too little stretch and recovery for neat neckbands and cuffs, so pair it with rib knit for the bands, cut shorter than the openings.
It is a classic fabric for the sweatshirt and hoodie. To compare it with other fabrics by weight, see GSM.