Pleat
Definition
A pleat is a fold of fabric pressed or stitched in place to control fullness, released below the stitching to give room and movement, as in skirts and trousers.
A pleat is formed by folding fabric along one line and bringing that fold to a second line, the placement line. On a pattern, the two lines are marked, often one solid and one dashed, with an arrow showing which way to fold. Each pleat takes up twice the distance between the lines.
Main types:
| Pleat | How it is folded |
|---|---|
| Knife | All folds face the same direction |
| Box | Two folds turned away from each other, forming a flat panel on the outside |
| Inverted box | Two folds meeting at the center on the outside, a box pleat seen from behind |
| Accordion | Narrow, permanently heat-set pleats across the whole fabric |
Pleats can be pressed sharp down their length, as on a kilt or a pleated skirt, or left soft and held only at the top, as in pleated trouser fronts and skirts falling from a yoke. Stitching down the fold for a few centimeters below the waist gives a flat fit over the hips and releases the fullness below.
Mark both lines with snips at the edge and chalk where needed (see fold line), fold and pin all the pleats before sewing, then baste across the top. Crisp wovens such as wool, cotton twill and linen hold pleats best. A tuck is a fold stitched along its length.