Definition
A tuck is a fold of fabric stitched along its length, either fully or partway, used to shape a garment or as decoration, as with fine pintucks.
Where a pleat is usually held only at the top, a tuck is stitched down, which makes it decorative as much as structural. The fold is sewn parallel to its edge, and the tuck is then pressed to one side.
Common forms:
- Pintucks: very narrow tucks, 1 to 3 mm (1/16 to 1/8 in), in rows on blouses, christening gowns and yokes. A twin needle and a pintuck foot make raised pintucks in one pass, without folding.
- Spaced tucks: wider tucks, 5 mm to 2 cm (1/4 to 3/4 in), separated by gaps, on bodices and sleeves.
- Release tucks, or dart tucks: stitched for part of their length, then left open, so they control fullness at the waist or shoulder and release it below, a softer alternative to a dart.
- Hem tucks: horizontal tucks above a hem, decorative and a traditional way to keep extra length to let down on children's clothes.
Tucks use extra fabric: each one takes twice its depth. For a panel of tucks, it is often easier to sew them on an oversized rectangle first, press, and then cut the pattern piece from the tucked fabric.
Sew tucks on grain, mark the fold lines precisely with chalk or pressed creases, and press each one before sewing the next. Lightweight, crisp wovens such as cotton lawn, voile and linen show them best.