Definition
A fold line is a line printed on a pattern piece showing where the fabric will be folded during construction, for example for a hem, facing, pleat or waistband.
Fold lines show where a finished edge is formed by folding rather than by a seam. You will see them on:
- Waistbands and cuffs, folded in half lengthwise.
- Cut-on facings and button bands, folded back to the inside along the front edge (see cut-on facing).
- Hems, where a fold line marks the finished length.
- Pleats and tucks, where one line is folded and brought to meet a placement line (see pleat).
- Casings, folded to form the channel for elastic.
Transfer fold lines to the fabric with chalk, a tracing wheel or small snips at each end in the seam allowance, then press the fold before sewing. A crisp pressed fold is much easier to stitch along than a soft one, and it shows you straight away whether the fold is accurate.
Do not confuse a fold line with the place on fold instruction. A fold line describes a fold you make while sewing; place on fold describes how you lay the pattern on folded fabric when cutting, so a piece is cut double-width without a seam. Both may be drawn with long dashes or a bracket, so read the label next to the line. Line styles differ between pattern companies, and the instructions usually include a key.