Hem
Definition
A hem is the finished lower edge of a garment, sleeve or trouser leg, usually made by folding the raw edge to the wrong side and stitching it in place.
The hem allowance is the extra length added below the finished hemline to make the fold. How much depends on the shape of the edge and the fabric:
| Hem | Typical allowance |
|---|---|
| Straight skirts, trousers, dresses | 3–5 cm (1 1/4–2 in) |
| Tops and shirts | 2–3 cm (3/4–1 1/4 in) |
| Knit T-shirts and sweatshirts | 2–2.5 cm (3/4–1 in) |
| Curved or circular hems | 1 cm (3/8 in) or less |
The wider the hem, the more weight it adds and the straighter the edge must be. A deep hem on a curve has to be eased in, so flared and circle skirts use a narrow hem.
The most common finishes are the double-fold hem, folded twice to enclose the raw edge; the blind hem, almost invisible from the right side; the faced hem, for shaped edges; and on knits, a twin-needle or coverstitch hem that keeps its stretch.
Before hemming, try the garment on and check the length with the shoes you will wear. Bias-cut and circle skirts should hang for a day first, because the bias stretches and the hem drops unevenly. For each technique step by step, see how to hem.