Definition
A narrow hem is a very small double-folded hem, usually 3 to 6 mm (1/8 to 1/4 in) wide, used on curved edges, ruffles and lightweight fabrics.
On a curved hem, such as a circle skirt, a shirttail or a round ruffle, the raw edge is longer than the line it is folded onto. A deep hem cannot lie flat there, but a narrow one can, because the difference over a few millimeters is tiny. Narrow hems are also lighter and neater on voile, chiffon, silk and viscose.
Three ways to sew one:
- Stitch, trim, fold, stitch (the baby hem): sew a line 1 cm (3/8 in) from the edge, press up along the stitching, trim close to it, fold again and stitch on top of the first line. Reliable on curves and slippery fabric.
- Rolled hem foot: the foot curls the edge into a tiny double fold as you sew. Fast on straight edges once you have practiced.
- Serger rolled hem: a narrow, wrapped overlock edge with no folding, ideal for chiffon and ruffles.
The hem allowance for a narrow hem is usually 1 to 1.5 cm (3/8 to 5/8 in), sometimes less, so check the pattern. On bias-cut and circular hems, let the garment hang for a day before leveling and hemming, because the bias drops.
Narrow hems are the standard finish for the circle skirt, for ruffles and for scarves. For other techniques, see how to hem.