Definition
A ruffle is a strip of fabric gathered, or cut in a curve, along one edge and sewn to a garment, so that its free edge falls in soft waves.
Ruffles, called frills in British English, decorate hems, necklines, sleeves, yokes and the tiers of skirts. There are two ways to make the fullness:
- Gathered ruffle: a straight strip, usually cut on the crosswise grain and gathered along one edge. The fullness depends on the gathering ratio: 1.5 times the edge it is sewn to for a light ruffle, 2 times for a classic one, up to 3 times on very thin fabric.
- Circular ruffle, or flounce: a ring of fabric cut like a small circle skirt. Its inner curve is straightened when sewn on, so the outer edge flares with no gathers at the seam. It is smoother and flatter, but uses more fabric.
For a gathered ruffle, multiply the edge length by the ratio and divide by the fabric width to see how many strips to join. Finish the free edge before gathering: a narrow hem, a rolled serger hem, or a strip folded in half lengthwise so there is no hem at all.
Light, soft fabrics such as voile, lawn, viscose and chiffon make the prettiest ruffles; stiff fabrics stand out rather than fall. A tiered skirt is a stack of gathered ruffles, and the gathered skirt can be made with up to three tiers. Work out the lengths with the gathering ratio calculator.