Definition
A blind hem is a hem stitched so that almost nothing shows on the right side, sewn by hand or with a machine blind hem stitch and foot.
A blind hem is the classic finish for skirts, dresses, trousers and curtains in medium-weight fabrics, where a visible line of topstitching would spoil the look.
By machine, the blind hem stitch sews several straight stitches in the hem allowance, then one sideways bite that catches the fold of the garment:
- Finish the raw edge of the hem allowance, then fold the hem up to the wrong side and press.
- Fold the hem back toward the right side of the garment, so 5 to 6 mm (about 1/4 in) of the hem edge shows beyond the fold.
- Fit the blind hem foot with its guide against the fold, and sew so the straight stitches fall on the hem allowance and the bite takes only one or two threads of the fold.
- Unfold and press. On the right side, you see only tiny dots.
Adjust the stitch width so the bite is as small as possible, and test on a scrap first: the technique is quick once the setting is right.
By hand, use a slip stitch or a catch stitch inside the hem fold, which gives the finest result and suits silk, wool and lined garments.
Blind hems work less well on very light or sheer fabrics, where every stitch shows, and on knits, which need a stretchy finish such as a twin needle. For alternatives, see hem and narrow hem.