Definition
Place on fold is a pattern instruction to lay one edge of the piece on the folded fabric, so it is cut as one symmetrical, seamless piece.
Pattern pieces that are symmetrical, such as a center back, a center front or a skirt panel, are often printed as half a piece. The center edge is marked place on fold, usually with a bracket whose arrows point to the edge. You fold the fabric, lay that edge exactly on the fold, and cut: when you open the fabric, you have the whole piece with no center seam.
Things to get right:
- No seam allowance on the fold edge. It is the center of the piece, not a seam. Placing it a few millimeters away from the fold adds twice that width to the garment.
- The fold must be on grain. Fold the fabric parallel to the selvedge, and check with a ruler that the distance from fold to selvedge is the same along the whole length.
- Fold only as wide as needed. A partial fold, with the selvedge brought to a measured distance instead of to the other selvedge, leaves a single layer free for the other pieces.
Cutting layouts show which pieces go on the fold, and some pieces, like a full circle skirt, are cut on a fabric folded twice. When fabric is too narrow, trace the half piece as a mirror image and cut the full shape on a single layer instead. See fold line for the symbol used during sewing, and cutting layout.