Definition
Selvedge, also spelled selvage, is the firmly woven, non-fraying edge running along both long sides of a woven fabric, parallel to the lengthwise grain.
The selvedge forms where the weft thread turns back at the edge of the loom, so it never unravels. It is often slightly denser than the rest of the cloth and may carry pinholes from the finishing frame, color dots or the designer's name. American English usually writes it selvage, British English selvedge; both mean the same edge.
Why it matters when you sew:
- It is your reference for the grain. Every grainline arrow is placed parallel to it.
- Fabric width is measured from selvedge to selvedge. 110 cm (45 in), 140 cm (55 in) and 150 cm (60 in) are the usual widths, and fabric quantities depend on them.
- It behaves differently. The selvedge can shrink or pucker more than the body of the fabric, so cut pattern pieces slightly inside it rather than on it.
There is one useful exception: on a straight seam that you would otherwise need to finish, such as the center back of a gathered skirt panel, a flat selvedge can serve as a clean, ready-made edge that will not fray.
Knit fabrics have edges too, often stiffened with glue or perforated; trim them off before cutting. For layout advice, see laying out and cutting fabric on grain, and for how the grain affects stretch, bias.