Definition
Woven fabric is cloth made on a loom by interlacing two sets of threads at right angles, the lengthwise warp and crosswise weft, so it barely stretches on grain.
The way the threads cross gives each woven fabric its character:
| Weave | How it looks | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| Plain | Simple over-under grid | Poplin, voile, lawn, linen, muslin, chambray |
| Twill | Diagonal ribs | Denim, gabardine, drill, chino |
| Satin | Smooth, shiny face from long floats | Satin, sateen, charmeuse |
Wovens share a few properties that shape how you sew them. They are stable along the grainline, give on the bias and fray at cut edges, so seams need finishing. Unless they contain elastane, they do not stretch, so a fitted woven garment needs wearing ease and an opening, such as a zip, buttons or a keyhole, to get over the head or hips.
Woven fabrics also hold a crease, take darts and pleats well, and keep their shape in structured garments such as skirts with waistbands, tailored trousers, shirts and bags.
To tell a woven from a knit, look at a cut edge: wovens fray into straight threads, while knits curl and do not fray. Pulled across the grain, a woven gives little or not at all.
Sewly includes 1.5 cm (5/8 in) seam allowances on woven fabric by default, and 1 cm (3/8 in) on knits. Compare with knit fabric, and see woven vs knit fabric.