Definition
A cutting layout is a diagram showing how to arrange pattern pieces on fabric of a given width so each is on grain and little fabric is wasted.
A cutting layout tells you how to fold the fabric, where each piece goes, which pieces sit on the fold and which are cut once, twice or as a mirrored pair. It depends on the fabric width and the size, which is why patterns give several layouts.
Reading one:
- Fold: the diagram shows whether the fabric is folded lengthwise selvedge to selvedge, partly folded, or opened flat in a single layer.
- Shading: pieces drawn shaded or hatched are usually placed printed side down, so they are cut reversed.
- Grain: every piece's grainline runs parallel to the selvedge unless marked otherwise.
- Direction: a with-nap layout has every piece pointing the same way, for velvet, corduroy and one-way prints (see nap).
Pin or weight all the pieces before cutting any, to be sure everything fits. Lay the fabric out on a large flat surface rather than letting it hang off the table, which pulls it off grain.
Each Sewly sewing guide includes cutting layouts and fabric quantities for 110, 140 and 150 cm (45, 55 and 60 in) wide fabric, for the pieces of your pattern. For the general method, see laying out and cutting fabric on grain; for quantities, see yardage.