Yoke

Yokes take over the job of darts. Fitted closely across one part of the body, they let the lower section fall straight or with extra fullness, gathered, pleated or plain, from their seam.

Where you find them:

• Shirt back yoke: a band across the shoulders, often cut double (self-lined) so the inside is neat and the shoulder seams are enclosed. The back below is often pleated or gathered for room to reach forward.
• Skirt yoke: a contoured band that fits the hips from the waist down, replacing waist darts; the skirt below can be gathered or flared.
• Jeans back yoke: the V-shaped panel above the back pockets, which shapes the seat without darts.
• Dress and blouse yokes: a front or back bodice section from which a gathered or pleated body hangs, as on peasant and smock styles.

Yoke seams are a natural place for a design detail such as piping, topstitching or a contrast fabric, and the lower edge of a yoke may be curved or pointed for style. Because the yoke carries the weight of the garment, it is often interfaced or cut double.

If a pattern has gathers under a yoke and you want more or less fullness, the gathering ratio calculator gives the new width.