Definition
Topstitching is a line of stitching sewn on the right side of a garment, parallel to an edge or seam, both to hold layers flat and as a visible detail.
Topstitching shows, so it doubles as decoration: think of the gold stitching on jeans or the parallel rows on a bag strap. It also does real work, holding seam allowances flat, keeping facings from rolling out and making hems and pockets durable.
Typical settings:
- Distance from the edge: 6 mm to 1 cm (1/4 to 3/8 in). Closer than about 3 mm is called edgestitching.
- Stitch length: 3 to 3.5 mm (about 7 to 8 stitches per inch), longer than for seams, so the line looks crisp.
- Thread: regular thread for a discreet finish, or heavier topstitching thread with a topstitch needle (size 90/14 or 100/16) for a bold line.
To keep it straight, use the edge of the presser foot, a seam guide or the markings on the needle plate as a reference, and move the needle position rather than steering the fabric. Sew slowly at corners and pivot with the needle down. Avoid backstitching where it shows: pull the threads to the wrong side and tie them.
Bags such as the tote bag are topstitched around the opening to hold the lining in place, and on jeans, topstitching is part of the style.