Definition
Edgestitching is topstitching sewn very close to a folded edge or seam, usually 1 to 3 mm (1/16 to 1/8 in) away, to keep it crisp and flat.
Edgestitching is the precise cousin of topstitching. It holds patch pockets in place, closes waistbands and cuffs from the right side, keeps bias binding flat and gives collars, plackets and bag openings a sharp, ready-to-wear finish.
Because the stitching sits so close to the edge, small wobbles show. A few things help:
- An edgestitch foot, which has a metal blade running along the fold, or a blind hem foot used the same way (see presser foot).
- Moving the needle position to the left or right instead of trying to steer the fabric along the edge of the foot.
- A slightly longer stitch, about 2.5 to 3 mm, and a slow, steady speed.
- Pressing first. A well-pressed fold is much easier to follow than a soft one.
When you edgestitch beside a seam, as on a placket or a yoke, stitch on the side the seam allowances were pressed toward, so the stitching catches them underneath and holds them flat.
If you sew both an edgestitch and a topstitch along the same edge, a classic workwear look, sew the edgestitch first and use it as the guide for the second row. Matching the thread to the fabric hides small irregularities; contrast thread shows every one.