Build your own skirt

This pattern is a builder: it drafts any skirt from parts, and every option works with every other. A denim mini with belt loops, a button-front midi, a pleated tennis skirt, a trumpet (mermaid) skirt or a tiered prairie skirt is a combination of the same choices. Sewly draws the waist and hip from your measurements, then shapes the skirt below them.

Start from a photo or from scratch

Upload a photo or a screenshot, paste a link, or describe the skirt in words, and the AI picks the shape, length, waist, opening, slit and pockets it sees. You can then change any part by hand, free and without limits. If you want a simpler starting point, the A-line, circle, gathered, pencil and wrap skirt patterns each come with a few options.

The parts you can combine

• Shape: straight, pencil, A-line (the default), trumpet (fitted to the knee, then flared), half circle, full circle, gathered, tiered (2 to 4 tiers) or pleated, with knife or box pleats.
• Panels: a plain front and back, or 4, 6 or 8 gores, with up to 30 cm (12 in) of flare at each side or panel seam.
• Fullness: a gathering ratio from 1.3 to 3.5 for gathered, tiered and pleated skirts; pleated skirts use at least 2.4 times the waist.
• Length: mini, above the knee, knee (default), midi or maxi, plus a length adjustment of up to 25 cm (10 in) either way.
• Rise: low, mid, high (default, at the natural waist) or extra high.
• Waist: a straight waistband (default), a contoured waistband, elastic, elastic with a drawstring, or a faced waist with no band; an optional hip yoke, with the skirt sewn below it.
• Opening: a side zip (default), a back zip, buttons down the front, a wrap with ties, or pull-on.
• Details: a lapped back vent or a back, front or side slit, in-seam or patch pockets, a ruffle at the hem, belt loops and a tie belt.

Made to measure or a standard size

Use your own measurements or a standard women's size, EU 32–54 (US 0–22, UK 4–26), or a children's size from 2 to 14 years. Waist and hip set the width, your waist-to-hip length places the curve of the hip, and the length runs from the waist to the hem you choose. The 3D preview shows the result on a mannequin built from your numbers.

Best fabrics for a skirt

Match the fabric to the shape: cotton twill, denim, linen and corduroy for A-line, straight and button-front skirts; wool crepe for pencil skirts; viscose and satin for circles and trumpets, which need drape; cotton poplin for gathered, tiered and pleated skirts. Knits suit pull-on styles with an elastic waist.

How hard is it to sew?

From a first project to intermediate. A gathered skirt on an elastic waist is one of the easiest things to sew; a pencil skirt with a vent and an invisible zip, a button front or eight gores need more care. The guide gives only the steps of your combination, in order, and you can ask it about any of them.

What's in the pattern

The pieces for your shape (a front and a back, gores, circle pieces or tiers) plus, when you choose them, a waistband, contoured band or waist facing, a hip yoke, pocket bags or patch pockets, a ruffle, wrap ties, belt loops or a tie belt. Long rectangles such as straight waistbands, gathered panels and ties are given as cutting dimensions to save paper. The guide lists each piece with its cut count, the notions with their quantities (an invisible zip, buttons, elastic, interfacing), the fabric quantity for 110, 140 and 150 cm (45, 55 and 60 in) wide fabric, and a cutting layout.

How to sew a skirt

The guide orders the steps for your skirt; most follow this sequence:

1. Sew the darts, join the gores or the hip yoke, or fold the pleats.
2. Sew the pockets into the side seams, or topstitch the patch pockets.
3. Sew and finish the side seams.
4. Insert the zip, or make the button bands, slit or vent.
5. Attach the waistband or facing, or sew the elastic casing.
6. Hem the skirt (circle skirts hang overnight first) and press.

For the zip, see how to insert an invisible zip; for pleats, our post on box, knife and inverted pleats.