Sew a cropped sweatshirt with a wide band

A cropped sweatshirt with a wide band is an ordinary sweatshirt shortened so that it ends at the waist, finished with a ribbed hem band 7 to 8 cm (2 3/4 to 3 1/8 in) deep instead of the usual 4 to 5 cm. You need a sweatshirt pattern cut to cropped length, about 1.3 m (1 1/2 yd) of French terry or sweatshirt fleece and 60 cm (5/8 yd) of ribbing, and you sew it in the same order as any sweatshirt: shoulders, neckband, sleeves, side seams, cuffs, then the band. The band is cut to about 80 % of the hem and stretched on, and that is what makes the crop sit snugly at the waist instead of riding up.

What do you need to sew a cropped sweatshirt?

The pattern pieces:

• Front and back, each cut once on the fold, at cropped length.
• Sleeve, cut twice.
• Neckband in ribbing: a strip 7 cm (2 3/4 in) tall and about 80 to 85 % of the neckline length, plus 2 cm (3/4 in) for the seam.
• Two cuffs in ribbing, each 14 cm (5 1/2 in) tall for a finished depth of 6 cm (2 3/8 in).
• Hem band in ribbing, 16 to 18 cm (6 1/4 to 7 in) tall for a finished depth of 7 to 8 cm.

Notions: a ballpoint or stretch needle in 80/12 or 90/14, polyester thread, 1 m (1 1/8 yd) of stay tape or clear elastic for the shoulder seams, and a twin needle if you want to topstitch the band.

Fabric: on 140 cm (55 in) wide fabric, a cropped adult sweatshirt with long sleeves takes 1.2 to 1.4 m (1 3/8 to 1 1/2 yd) of main fabric, plus a piece of ribbing about 50 × 70 cm (20 × 28 in) for the wide band, the cuffs and the neckband. Pre-wash both fabrics: cotton sweatshirt knits can shrink by a few centimeters per meter, and ribbing often shrinks at a different rate from the body.

Which fabric works best for a cropped sweatshirt?

French terry of 240 to 300 gsm (7 to 9 oz) with loops on the inside is the classic choice; brushed-back sweatshirt fleece is warmer and a little bulkier. Both are stable knits. For the bands, use a rib knit with elastane, 1 × 1 or 2 × 2: it stretches further than the body fabric and, more importantly, springs back. A wide band in a fabric that does not recover stretches out within a few wears and the crop turns into a loose tunic hem.

Test the ribbing before you cut: stretch a 10 cm (4 in) section to 15 cm and let go. It should return to 10 cm within a few seconds.

How long should a cropped sweatshirt be?

Measure from the high point of the shoulder, where the shoulder seam meets the neck, straight down the front to where you want the bottom edge of the band. On most adults the natural waist is 40 to 45 cm (15 3/4 to 17 3/4 in) from that point, and a crop that lands at the waist or up to 5 cm (2 in) above it suits high-waisted trousers and skirts. Repeat the measurement with your arms raised: a relaxed sweatshirt rides up by several centimeters, so pick a length you are happy with in both positions.

The body piece is cut to that total length minus the finished band depth, plus a 1 cm (3/8 in) seam allowance. For a 45 cm total and a 7 cm band, the body ends 39 cm below the shoulder point. If in doubt, cut the body 2 cm longer: you can trim it before the band goes on, not after.

How do you cut a wide hem band that holds the crop in place?

The band is a rectangle folded lengthwise, so its cut height is twice the finished depth plus two seam allowances: 7 cm finished gives 16 cm (6 1/4 in) cut. The stretch of the ribbing runs along the length of the strip.

For the length, measure the whole hem of the assembled body, front and back together, on the stitching line, and multiply by 0.8 for a firm ribbing or 0.85 for a softer one, then add 2 cm for the seam. A 100 cm (39 3/8 in) hem gives a band of 82 cm (32 1/4 in) with a firm rib. Cut the cuffs the same way at 80 % of the sleeve hem, and the neckband at 80 to 85 % of the neckline. A band cut to the full hem length hangs instead of hugging.

Tip: Before you sew the band on for good, pin it to the hem at the quarter marks and try the sweatshirt on. A wide band that is too tight digs in when you sit; one that is too loose rolls up. Adjust the seam of the loop by a centimeter or two and pin again.

How do you sew a cropped sweatshirt, step by step?

1. Cut and mark. Place the front and back on the fold with the greatest stretch running around the body. Mark the center front and center back of the neckline and hem, the front and back of each sleeve cap, and the halfway point of each band with a small snip or a chalk mark.
2. Sew the shoulder seams right sides together with a 1 cm seam allowance, laying stay tape or clear elastic in the seam so the shoulders do not stretch. Use a narrow zigzag (1 mm wide, 2.5 mm long), a stretch stitch or a serger. Press the allowances toward the back.
3. Attach the neckband. Sew the short ends into a loop, fold it lengthwise wrong sides together and press. Divide the loop and the neckline into quarters with pins, match the pins, and sew with the band on top, stretching the band between pins so it meets the neckline. Press the seam toward the body.
4. Sew the sleeves in flat. Match the sleeve cap mark to the shoulder seam, pin the cap to the open armhole and sew. A sweatshirt cap is shallow, so there is little to ease.
5. Sew the side seams in one pass, from the hem edge to the end of the sleeve, matching the underarm seams. Finish the allowances together and press toward the back.
6. Attach the cuffs. Sew each into a loop, fold and press, divide into halves, and stretch onto the sleeve hem with the cuff on top.
7. Attach the hem band. Sew the short ends into a loop with 1 cm, press the seam open, fold lengthwise wrong sides together and press. Mark quarters with the seam at one side seam, match them to the side seams, center front and center back of the body, and sew with the band on top, stretching the band to fit between pins while keeping the body relaxed under the foot. The cuff tutorial shows the same stretch-and-sew motion up close.
8. Press and topstitch. Steam the band seam with the iron lowered onto it rather than dragged along, pressing the allowance up into the body. If you like, topstitch 6 mm (1/4 in) above the seam with a twin needle to hold the allowance flat.

If this is your first knit project, sewing knit fabrics on a regular machine covers needles, stitch settings and keeping the fabric from stretching under the foot.

What are the most common mistakes with a wide band?

• Band cut too long. It looks fine on the table and sags on the body. Stick to 80 to 85 % and pin-fit first.
• Stretching the body instead of the band. The seam comes out wavy and the hem flares. Only the band is under tension; the body feeds flat.
• Self-fabric band without recovery. French terry alone will not hold a 7 cm band at the waist. Use ribbing, or interlock with elastane at the least.
• Cropping without raising your arms. Measure both ways before cutting.
• Pressing ribbing under pressure. A heavy iron dragged along a band stretches it. Hover and steam, then pat.

Can Sewly draft the cropped sweatshirt for you?

Sewly's sweatshirt and hoodie pattern has a cropped length option, with the band included in the length, plus a regular, relaxed or oversized fit, a crew neck or lined hood and an optional kangaroo pocket. The cuffs and hem band are given as cutting dimensions worked out from your wrist and the hem width, with 1 cm seam allowances. To make the band wider than drafted, add twice the extra depth to the band height and take the same extra depth off the bottom of the body piece, so the total length stays what you chose. The sewing guide lists fabric quantities for 110, 140 and 150 cm wide fabric.