Pattern matching

Stripes that jump at the side seam or a plaid that breaks at center front are visible from across a room. Matching them is planned at the cutting stage, not at the sewing machine.

The principles:

• Match at the stitching line, not the cut edge. Mark where the seam line crosses each stripe or check on both pieces.
• Use notches as matching points. Place the same stripe or check line at corresponding notches on the side seams, center front and center back.
• Cut in a single layer. Cut the first piece, flip it over onto the fabric, align it with the printed design and cut the mirror piece.
• Prioritize. Horizontal stripes at side seams and center front matter most; on a set-in sleeve, match the front armhole notch to the bodice. Some seams, such as shoulders and darts, cannot match everywhere.

When sewing, pin through the matching points or baste, and use a walking foot so the layers do not creep. Uneven plaids, which differ in one direction, also need a one-way layout, like a directional print.

Allow extra fabric: roughly one repeat for each main piece length, and more for large repeats. When matching is too difficult, cut pockets, yokes or bands on the bias for a deliberate contrast instead.