A jersey tank top is two pieces and three strips of binding: a front and a back cut on the fold, a neckband and two armhole bindings cut across the stretch of the fabric and shorter than the openings they finish. Sew the shoulders with stay tape, attach the neckband and the armhole bindings while the top is still flat, close the side seams in one pass each and hem with a twin needle or a zigzag. It takes about two hours on a regular sewing machine and under 1 m (1 1/8 yd) of jersey.

The pattern pieces for size EU 38 / US 6, drawn by Sewly's drafting engine (seam allowances included). T-shirt →

What do you need to sew a tank top?

The pieces:

  • Front, cut once on the fold.
  • Back, cut once on the fold.
  • Neckband, a strip 4 cm (1 5/8 in) wide and 85 % of the neckline length, cut with the stretch running along its length.
  • Two armhole bindings, strips 4 cm wide and 90 % of each armhole length, cut the same way.

The notions: a 75/11 or 80/12 ballpoint or stretch needle; polyester thread; 1.5 m (1 5/8 yd) of 6 mm (1/4 in) clear elastic or knit stay tape for the shoulders; a twin needle, 4 mm, if you want a double row on the hem. No serger needed: the guide to sewing knit fabrics on a regular machine covers the stitch settings used below.

Fabric on 140 cm (55 in) wide jersey: 0.8 m (7/8 yd) for a hip-length tank in a mid-range size, 0.6 m (5/8 yd) for a cropped one, 1.1 m (1 1/4 yd) for a tunic or sizes above EU 46 (US 14). Fold the fabric with both selvages toward the middle so the front sits on one fold and the back on the other; the bindings come out of the leftover width.

Which jersey works for a tank top?

A cotton elastane jersey of 180 to 220 g/m² with 30 to 50 % stretch across the width and good recovery, meaning it springs back when you let go. Bamboo, modal and linen jerseys drape more softly and suit a looser tank. Avoid very thin slinky knits for a first one: they curl at the edges and stretch under the foot. Measure the stretch on the bolt by holding 10 cm (4 in) against a ruler and pulling gently; the stretch percentage decides how much shorter the bindings can be.

Pre-wash the jersey as you will wash the top. Cotton jersey shrinks more in length than in width, and a hip-length tank can lose 3 cm (1 1/4 in) in the first wash.

How do you cut jersey without stretching it?

Lay the fabric flat on a table for 20 minutes before cutting so it relaxes. Use pattern weights and a rotary cutter rather than pins and shears, and keep the greatest stretch running around the body. Cut the bindings last, across the width, where the stretch is greatest: a band cut along the length would not recover and the neckline would gape.

Mark the center front and center back of the neckline and of each binding with a small notch, and the quarter points with chalk. These marks are what let you stretch the band evenly.

How do you sew a tank top step by step?

Set the machine to a narrow zigzag, 1 mm wide and 2.5 mm long, or to the stretch stitch, with a 1 cm (3/8 in) seam allowance. Test it on a folded scrap first and loosen the top tension slightly if the seam puckers.

  1. Stabilize and sew the shoulders. Lay the clear elastic or stay tape on the back shoulder seam allowance, sew the shoulders right sides together through the tape, and press the seam toward the back. The tape stops the shoulders from stretching every time you pull the top over your head.
  2. Make the neckband. Sew the short ends of the strip right sides together at 1 cm to make a loop. Fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Mark the loop in quarters, with the seam at the center back.
  3. Attach the neckband. With the top right side out, pin the band's quarter marks to the neckline's center front, center back and shoulder seams, raw edges together. Sew with the band on top, stretching it between the pins until it lies flat on the neckline, without stretching the body. Press the seam toward the body. How to sew a neckband on a T-shirt shows the quartering in photos.
  4. Bind the armholes flat. With the side seams still open, fold each armhole binding in half lengthwise and press. Pin it to the armhole raw edge in the same way, matching the shoulder seam and the underarm ends, and sew, stretching the binding a little more around the curve at the bottom of the armhole than along the straps. Press the seam toward the body.
  5. Sew the side seams in one pass from the hem to the top of the armhole, matching the ends of the bindings. Press toward the back.
  6. Hem. Turn up 2 cm (3/4 in), press, and stitch from the right side with the twin needle 1.5 cm from the fold, or with a zigzag 3 mm wide. Press the hem flat with steam and let it cool before you move it.
  7. Topstitch the neckband and bindings from the right side, 3 mm (1/8 in) from the seam, with the twin needle or the zigzag, to hold the seam allowance down.

Why does the neckband gape or stand away from the body?

The band was too long, or the body was stretched as you sewed. A neckband at 85 % of the neckline, stretched evenly between four pins, pulls the neckline inward so it lies flat against the chest. On a deep scoop neck, cut it at 80 %; on a high round neck with a low-stretch jersey, 90 %. If a finished band still ripples, press it with plenty of steam and hold the iron in place for a few seconds: cotton jersey shrinks back a little under steam.

A band that puckers the neckline instead was cut too short or stretched too hard; recut it longer rather than fighting it.

What are the common mistakes with a jersey tank?

  • Skipped stitches: a universal needle pierces the knit loops instead of sliding between them. Change to a ballpoint or stretch needle before you start.
  • A wavy hem: the fabric was stretched under the presser foot. Lower the foot pressure if your machine allows it, use a walking foot, or run a strip of wash-away stabilizer under the hem.
  • Popped shoulder seams: no stay tape, or a straight stitch that cannot stretch with the fabric.
  • Twisted straps: the binding was pinned with the wrong side out, or stretched unevenly along the strap. Keep the pins at the quarter marks and check the strap lies flat before sewing.

When should you sew a woven shell instead?

A tank only works in a knit, because the stretch is what lets the neckline pass over your head and the straps hug the shoulders. For cotton lawn, linen or viscose, sew a sleeveless shell top instead: it has bust darts, a keyhole or zip, and bias-bound armholes, as described in sew a boxy woven top in an afternoon.

Can you draft the tank to your own measurements?

Sewly's T-shirt pattern with the sleeveless option drafts the front and back from your bust or chest, shoulder width and the fit you choose, from fitted to oversized, and gives the neckband and the armhole bindings as cutting dimensions with 1 cm seam allowances already included. Changing the neckline or the length redraws the pieces instantly.