To start sewing you need about a dozen tools: a sewing machine, fabric shears, small snips, a tape measure, a clear ruler, pins, a seam ripper, a marking tool, hand needles, thread, spare machine needles, and an iron with an ironing board. If you sew from PDF patterns, add paper scissors and tape. Everything else, from rotary cutters to sergers, makes certain jobs faster but can wait until you know how you like to work.
A few good tools beat a large boxed kit: sharp shears and a reliable iron make more difference to your results than any gadget.
The essential kit
| Tool | What to look for | What it does |
|---|---|---|
| Sewing machine | Straight and zigzag stitches, adjustable stitch length, a manual | Sews seams and finishes edges |
| Fabric shears | Bent-handle dressmaking shears, 20–25 cm (8–10 in) | Cuts fabric cleanly while it lies flat |
| Small snips | 10–13 cm (4–5 in) embroidery scissors or thread snips | Trims threads, clips curves, cuts notches |
| Tape measure | 150 cm (60 in), fiberglass, centimeters on one side and inches on the other | Body measurements and curved lengths |
| Clear ruler | About 15 × 60 cm (6 × 24 in), plus a short ruler | Straight lines, grainline checks, hems, the test square |
| Pins | Glass-head pins that will not melt under the iron | Hold layers together before sewing |
| Seam ripper | A sharp point and a small curved blade | Removes stitches without tearing the fabric |
| Marking tool | Tailor's chalk, a chalk wheel or a water-soluble pen | Transfers notches, dots and darts |
| Hand needles | A mixed pack of sharps | Buttons, hand hems, small repairs |
| Thread | All-purpose polyester in the colors of your fabric | Sews almost everything |
| Machine needles | Universal 70/10, 80/12 and 90/14; ballpoint for knits | Matches the needle to the fabric |
| Iron and board | A steam iron with reliable temperature settings | Presses seams flat and shapes the garment |
| Pressing cloth | A square of plain cotton or silk organza | Protects fabric from shine and scorching |
A seam ripper is the tool you will use more than you would like, so buy a sharp one and replace it when it starts to drag. For marking, tailor's chalk brushes off most fabrics, while water-soluble pens show better on light colors. Test either on a scrap first.
Cutting tools: what matters most
Keep your fabric shears for fabric only. Paper dulls the blades quickly, and dull shears chew the edge instead of cutting it. Tie a ribbon on the handles so nobody in the house borrows them for paper.
A rotary cutter, a round blade usually 45 mm across, used with a self-healing cutting mat, is faster and more accurate than shears on long straight edges and slippery fabrics. It is a worthwhile second purchase, but scissors are enough to start.
Measuring and marking
Check your tape measure against a rigid ruler once in a while. Old cloth tapes stretch, and a stretched tape reads short on every measurement you take. For hems and seam allowances, a short sliding seam gauge, about 15 cm (6 in) long, is inexpensive and saves a lot of time.
Pressing tools
Pressing is half of sewing. Press each seam as you go: first flat as sewn, to set the stitches, then open or to one side. An iron with a dependable temperature setting matters more than any special feature, and a pressing cloth prevents shiny marks on dark fabrics, wool and synthetics.
Tools for PDF patterns
- Paper scissors, or an old rotary blade kept for paper
- Matte tape or a glue stick
- A long ruler to check the test square and line up pages
- A large flat surface: a table, or a clean floor
Our guide to assembling a tiled PDF pattern shows how to use them.
Worth adding later
- Pattern weights: hold pattern pieces on fabric without pins; clean food cans work well.
- Tailor's ham: a firm, rounded cushion for pressing curved seams such as darts and princess seams.
- Point turner: pushes out the corners of collars, bags and cushions; a blunt chopstick does the same job.
- Walking foot: feeds thick or slippery layers evenly through the machine.
- Loop turner and bodkin: turn narrow tubes and thread elastic; a large safety pin works too.
- Pinking shears: a quick edge finish on fabrics that fray little.
- Serger (overlocker): trims and finishes seam edges in one pass. Useful but optional, as finishing seams without a serger shows.
Choosing a first sewing machine
You do not need dozens of stitches. Look for a straight stitch, a zigzag with adjustable width, an adjustable stitch length, a one-step or four-step buttonhole, a free arm for sleeves and trouser legs, and easy access to the bobbin. A serviced secondhand mechanical machine from a reliable brand, with its manual, is often a better buy than a very cheap new one. Before your first seam, read sewing machine basics.
What to buy first, and what next
- Before the first project: everything in the essential kit table above.
- After a few projects: a rotary cutter and mat, pattern weights, a seam gauge and a tailor's ham, once you know which jobs feel slow.
- When you sew regularly: specialist presser feet (zip foot, walking foot, blind hem foot), a serger if you sew many knits, and pattern paper for tracing.
Many machines come with a zip foot and a buttonhole foot in the box, so check the accessories before buying them separately.
Keep your kit together
A box or drawer with everything in one place saves time at every session. Keep pins in a magnetic dish or a pincushion, machine needles in their labeled packs so you always know their size and type, and a small bin next to the machine for thread ends and scraps. A lint brush and the machine's manual belong in the same box.
Common mistakes when buying tools
- Cutting paper with fabric shears. They stop cutting fabric cleanly. Keep a separate pair for paper.
- Plastic-head pins. They melt under the iron. Choose glass heads.
- A stretched tape measure. Every measurement comes out short. Check it against a ruler and replace it if it is off.
- Skipping the iron. Unpressed seams never lie flat, however straight you sew.
- The wrong needle. A universal needle on jersey can skip stitches; use a ballpoint needle for knits.
- Buying everything at once. Start with the essential kit and add tools when a project calls for them.