Definition
Pinking shears are scissors with saw-toothed blades that cut fabric in a zigzag edge, which limits fraying on firmly woven fabrics and adds a decorative finish.
The zigzag cut gives an edge a series of tiny points with threads cut on the bias, which unravel much less than a straight cut. The technique is called pinking, and pinking shears are its tool.
Uses:
- Finishing seam allowances on cotton, wool and other firm wovens, especially in lined garments.
- Trimming curved seam allowances, where the notched edge also reduces bulk.
- Decorative edges on felt, fleece and paper crafts, where nothing frays.
- Cutting fabric swatches and samples that will not unravel.
They are not for cutting out pattern pieces: the teeth make it impossible to follow a line precisely, and you would lose the cutting line and the notches. Cut out with ordinary shears or a rotary cutter first, then pink the seam allowances after sewing.
Use the full length of the blades, opening them wide and closing them completely before the next cut, and line up the teeth for the new cut with the last notch so the zigzag stays continuous. As with dressmaking shears, keep them for fabric only: paper dulls them quickly, and they are difficult to sharpen at home.
For a more durable finish, combine pinking with a line of straight stitching, or choose another seam finish.