A presser foot holds the fabric against the feed dogs while the needle stitches, and each foot is shaped for a job. Most home machines come with four to six: an all-purpose (zigzag) foot, a zipper foot, a buttonhole foot, a blind hem foot, an overcasting foot and often a satin stitch foot. For garment sewing, the ones worth buying next are an invisible zipper foot, a walking foot and an edgestitch foot.
A foot will not make a seam perfect by itself, but the right one turns a fiddly step into an easy one. Here is what each does and when you need it. For the basics, see the presser foot entry in our glossary.
Which presser feet come with a sewing machine?
| Foot | What it does | Use it for |
|---|---|---|
| All-purpose (zigzag) foot | Wide opening for straight and zigzag stitches | Most seams: the bulk of garment sewing |
| Zipper foot | Narrow, sits to one side of the needle | Regular and lapped zips, piping, sewing close to a bulky edge |
| Buttonhole foot | Holds the button or a slider to size the buttonhole | One-step or four-step buttonholes |
| Blind hem foot | A guide that rides along the fold | Nearly invisible machine hems on trousers and skirts |
| Overcasting foot | A pin or bar the stitch wraps over | Finishing raw edges without the fabric tunneling |
| Satin stitch foot | Grooved underneath, often clear | Dense zigzag, appliqué, decorative stitches |
Check your manual: brands name their feet differently, and some machines also include a button sewing foot, a quarter-inch foot or a rolled hem foot.
What does the all-purpose foot do?
It is the foot that lives on your machine. Its wide slot lets the needle swing for zigzag, and the markings on its toes, together with the guide lines on the needle plate, help you keep a constant seam allowance. On many machines the right edge of the foot sits about 6 to 7 mm (1/4 in) from a center needle, but measure yours before relying on it.
When do I need a zipper foot or an invisible zipper foot?
A regular zipper foot is narrow so the needle can stitch right beside the teeth of a lapped or centered zip. It clips on to the left or the right of the needle.
An invisible zipper foot is different: two grooves underneath uncurl the coil as you sew, so the stitching runs tight against it and the zip disappears into the seam. You can sew an invisible zip with a regular zipper foot, but the stitching lands further from the coil and the tape may show. Our guide to inserting an invisible zip covers both. Plastic invisible zipper feet are inexpensive and exist in low-shank versions for most machines.
What is a walking foot and do I need one?
A walking foot has its own set of feed dogs on top, driven by the needle bar, so the upper and lower layers move at the same speed. Without one, the upper layer tends to creep forward and you end up with a step at the end of a seam.
It is worth having for:
- Knits that stretch out of shape under a regular foot. See sewing knit fabrics for the machine settings.
- Quilting through layers of cotton and wadding.
- Matching stripes and checks across a seam.
- Slippery or sticky fabrics such as velvet, vinyl and laminated cotton.
It is not essential for a first garment in woven cotton. A walking foot is bulky and slower on tight curves, so most people fit it for the jobs above and then go back to the all-purpose foot.
What other feet are worth buying?
- Edgestitch foot: a central blade rides along the edge or the seam, for straight topstitching 1 to 3 mm from an edge and for stitching in the ditch.
- Rolled hem foot: curls the edge into a tiny double fold as you sew, for 2 to 6 mm (1/16 to 1/4 in) hems on light fabrics such as chiffon and lawn. It takes practice on scraps; the first 2 cm are the tricky part.
- Quarter-inch foot: the edge sits exactly 1/4 in (6 mm) from the needle, for patchwork and narrow seams.
- Non-stick foot: a coated sole that glides over leather, vinyl and laminated cotton, which stick to a metal foot.
- Gathering foot: gathers a single layer as you sew, or gathers it and attaches it to a flat layer in one pass. Handy for ruffles and tiered skirts; the ratio depends on stitch length and tension.
- Bias binding foot: folds the binding around the edge and stitches it in one pass.
Will a presser foot fit my machine?
Not every foot fits every machine. Check three things:
- Shank height. Most home machines are low shank: about 1.3 cm (1/2 in) from the bottom of the foot to the center of the screw that holds the ankle. High-shank machines measure about 2.5 cm (1 in). Some older machines are slant shank, with the needle bar at an angle.
- Snap-on or screw-on. Most modern machines use snap-on feet that clip to an ankle; others screw directly onto the presser bar.
- Stitch width. A foot made for a 5 mm zigzag can break the needle on a machine with a 7 mm or 9 mm stitch width. Feet for wide-stitch machines have a wider opening.
Generic low-shank feet fit many brands, but brand-specific feet, walking feet especially, often fit and work better. When in doubt, take your manual or an existing foot to the shop.
How do I change a presser foot safely?
Turn the machine off, raise the needle to its highest point and lift the presser foot lever. Press the release button behind the ankle and the foot drops off; place the new foot's bar under the ankle and lower the lever until it clicks. Before sewing, turn the handwheel by hand through one full stitch to check that the needle clears the foot, especially after fitting a zipper foot or changing the stitch width.
Which feet do I need for my first projects?
For a first skirt, top or tote, the all-purpose foot and the zipper foot are enough. The first foot to add is an invisible zipper foot if you sew dresses and skirts, or a walking foot if you sew knits. After that, let your projects decide. If a step of a Sewly pattern makes you wonder which foot to use on your fabric, you can ask its sewing guide. And if you are still getting to know the machine, our first-machine guide goes through the rest of the box.