Seven hand stitches cover almost everything a home sewist does by hand: the running stitch, the basting stitch, the backstitch, the slip stitch, the ladder stitch, the catch (herringbone) stitch and the whipstitch, plus the technique for sewing on a button. Learn them on a scrap once and you can close the gap in a cushion, hem trousers invisibly, tack down a facing and mend a split seam.
Even if almost all your sewing happens at the machine, these stitches finish the details a machine cannot reach.
What do I need for hand sewing?
- Needles: sharps (sizes 7 to 10, medium length) for general sewing, betweens (shorter) for small precise stitches, and a larger-eye embroidery needle for thick thread. A needle that slides through the fabric without effort is the right size.
- Thread: all-purpose polyester for most jobs, cotton or silk basting thread for temporary stitches. Cut about 45 to 50 cm (18 to 20 in), roughly from your fingertips to your elbow: longer lengths tangle.
- A thimble on the middle finger of your sewing hand, to push the needle through thick layers.
- Beeswax or thread conditioner, optional, to reduce tangling.
To start, tie a small knot at the end of the thread or, for an invisible start, take two tiny stitches on the spot inside the seam allowance. To finish, take two small backstitches in the same place, pass the needle through the loop before pulling tight, and bury the tail between the layers.
Which hand stitches should I learn first?
| Stitch | What it is for | Stitch length | Visible? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Running stitch | Gathering, quick seams, mending | 2 to 4 mm (about 1/8 in) | Yes |
| Basting stitch | Holding layers temporarily, fitting | 1 to 1.5 cm (3/8 to 5/8 in) | Removed later |
| Backstitch | Strong seams, repairs | 2 to 3 mm (about 1/8 in) | Yes, looks machine-made |
| Slip stitch | Hems, facings, linings | 5 to 8 mm (1/4 in) apart | Almost invisible |
| Ladder stitch | Closing a gap from the right side | 3 to 5 mm (1/8 to 3/16 in) | Invisible |
| Catch stitch | Hems on knits and heavy fabrics, tacking facings | 5 to 10 mm (1/4 to 3/8 in) apart | Inside only |
| Whipstitch | Joining edges, appliqué, felt | 3 to 5 mm (1/8 to 3/16 in) | Yes |
Running stitch
The simplest stitch: weave the needle in and out along a line, loading several stitches on the needle before pulling the thread through. Small even stitches make a light seam; longer stitches pulled up gather the fabric. It is not strong on its own, so keep it away from seams under strain.
Basting stitch
A long running stitch, 1 to 1.5 cm (3/8 to 5/8 in), to hold layers before machine sewing or to try a garment on. Use a contrasting thread and a light knot so it pulls out easily. Basting is slower than pinning but holds slippery fabrics and set-in sleeves far more precisely.
Backstitch
The strongest hand stitch. Bring the needle up one stitch length ahead, then take it back down at the end of the previous stitch, so the stitches touch on the front like a machine seam. Use it to repair a split seam or to sew where the machine cannot reach, such as the inside corner of a lined bag.
Slip stitch
For hems, and anywhere a fold should be attached invisibly. Slide the needle 5 to 8 mm (1/4 in) along inside the fold, come out and pick up one or two threads of the main fabric directly opposite, then slide back into the fold. Do not pull tight, or the hem will dimple. See slip stitch.
Ladder stitch
Closes an opening between two folded edges from the right side: the turning gap in a cushion, a lining or a soft toy. Take a small stitch inside one fold, then go straight across into the other fold, so the stitches form the rungs of a ladder. Every few stitches, pull the thread: the edges close and the stitches disappear. More in ladder stitch.
Catch stitch (herringbone)
A zigzag of small stitches worked from left to right if you are right-handed, alternating a tiny stitch in the hem allowance and a tiny stitch in the garment, the threads crossing each time. The crossed threads give a little stretch, so it suits hems on knits, heavy wool trousers and facings that must stay put without a hard line on the outside.
Whipstitch
Over-and-over stitches wrapping an edge, to join two edges side by side, attach a patch or felt, or stop an edge fraying in a pinch. The stitches show, so use matching thread or make them a feature.
How do I sew on a button by hand?
- Mark the button position through the buttonhole. Double the thread and knot the ends together.
- Take a small stitch at the mark to anchor the thread. Place the button and lay a pin or toothpick across it, between the holes, to leave space for a shank.
- Sew through the holes four to six times, then remove the pin.
- Pull the button away from the fabric and wind the thread around the stitches under it four or five times to form a shank. It lets the button sit on top of the buttonhole without strain.
- Take the needle to the wrong side and finish with a few small backstitches.
Shank buttons, with a loop on the back, do not need the pin. More in our guide to buttonholes and buttons.
Which stitch should I use for a hem?
- Light and medium wovens: a slip stitch, or a blind hem stitch, which is a slip stitch worked under the edge of the hem allowance so the thread is hidden.
- Knits and heavy fabrics: a catch stitch, which flexes.
- Quick fixes: a small running stitch in matching thread, or fusible hem tape for a temporary repair.
Our guide on how to hem covers machine hems as well.
How do I keep hand stitches even?
Sew in good light, with the work on a table rather than in your lap. Keep the tension relaxed: pull the thread until it lies flat and no further. Space your stitches against the weave, or mark chalk dots every 5 mm on your first tries. Ten minutes of practice on a scrap before working on a garment settles your rhythm.
When a step in a Sewly pattern says to close a gap or finish an edge by hand, you can ask its sewing guide which stitch suits your fabric.